Outdoor Odysseys

Lakes and Legacies: A Circuit via Knockreer Park and Meetings of the Waters

The great thing about being based somewhere is that you never need to worry about making the last bus, coach or train back when your base is elsewhere. In Killarney’s case, this matters if you are coming from Cork or Limerick, and less so if Tralee is where you are returning. It also is how I got so much out of my Scottish escapades, so repurposing that approach in Ireland was sure to pay dividends. It was as if I were in the Irish counterpart to Aviemore, though things differ substantially in Killarney.

My first full day in the area began cloudy, yet I was more than happy to let the day develop in its own time and add some editing to the photos that I would make. When you seek sunlit visits, you make it possible for the conditions to do just that. Patience is what is needed then, particularly when a midday rain shower comes your way.

It was in that spirit that I continued from my accommodation into Knockreer Park. Along the way there, I passed through Killarney House and Gardens, which offered an escape from street-side strolling. My objective at this stage was to get to the shore of Lough Leane and follow that on the way towards Ross Castle. In some ways, this was a reprise of the route taken during the day trip from Limerick the preceding April, albeit with numerous variations.

One of these was not to linger around historic Ross Castle but to potter around adjoining Ross Island, a lakeside peninsula despite the name. Along the way, I visited such spots as its disused copper mine, the Governor’s Rock and O’Donoghue’s Library. On the way back towards the castle, I shadowed Ross Bay. The strolling took me into quieter recesses away from the castle, which I was again to pass on the way to Muckross.

While the horse-racing fraternity may not agree with me on this, I reckon that it would add a lot to be able to cut across the racecourse to avoid going along Muckross Road so much. Hoteliers then might have cause to complain if I suggested a footbridge across the River Flesk to go through their grounds. My day trip to Killarney from Tralee at the start of the preceding June would have benefitted greatly from such a diversion that avoided most if not all of the throng that descended on the town that bank holiday weekend.

However, there is a partial concession to this thoroughfare avoidance in the form of a cut-through from Ross Road to Muckross Road near where the latter crosses the aforementioned river. This goes through a residential area before skirting the racecourse stabling area and crossing Maurice O’Donoghue Memorial Park. Anything is better than nothing, I suppose.

Muckross is a significant distance from Killarney at around five kilometres. On the way there, it is mostly downhill, yet going uphill on the way back to meet a transport connection is not the best. Nevertheless, Muckross Road does have places for refreshing oneself if time is available for attending to such needs. The outbound distance and the dallying around other places meant my arrival in Muckross was tardy, all the more so given how much time I spent around Muckross Friary awaiting some sun to allow photos to be made. Thus, I found myself around Muckross House around 16:30, and I was having plans to round Muckross Lake. The length of an Irish summer evening meant that such designs were not as daft as they might have appeared.

The amount of available sunlight justified my persistence; this was to be an advance on the overcast outing that I weathered the preceding April. Much was put to rights during this circuit, and I lingered hopefully near Dinis Cottage and Meetings of the Waters in wait for sunshine to return after any cloudy spells. The waters in question were in good flow with currents flowing strongly from Upper Lake, Muckross Lake and Lough Leane at this well known confluence.

On the way back from Meetings of the Waters to Muckross, I got more than my share of recompense for what I missed during the previous encounter. Despite occasional pauses while the sun played peek-a-boo with the clouds, its appearances brought moments worth savouring. Thus, there was no cause for complaint as I crossed the N72 to pick up a path taking me destined for Torc Waterfall, only for my deciding to peel off for Muckross instead. That spared me some uphill travel and postponed any encounter with a busy spot for later in my stay in the area.

Though Muckross was sun blessed, there was a sign that not everywhere was dry. Dark rain clouds lent a dramatic atmosphere to any sightings of Muckross House. Looking towards the lake allowed a glimpse of a very different world. The juxtaposition of rain and sun in places only kilometres apart was striking.

My return to Killarney was to earn me a soaking as the rain clouds headed west. They soon left me to dry, and I arrived at my lodgings, not displeased with my day on foot. When so much was set to rights, it is impossible to grumble about passing occasional wettings. There was equally much that was peaceful and scenic, too. The tranquillity and lushness of my surroundings was more than amenable to my spirit.