Category: Europe
Pondering coastal walking possibilities
28th April 2010 With a bank holiday weekend ahead of us, thoughts turn to making use of the extra time. In truth, the pondering started last week and my thinking ended up in Northumberland even if I didn't. It's been a while since my sole hike by the county's coastline near the start of 2006 and, given that I had a largely cloudy day for my exertions, it would be worth going back to savour the sights. Then, I journeyed from Alnmouth to Craster and back again, so there are sights such as Dunstanburgh and Bamburgh castles awaiting my attention along with Lindisfarne. Public transport connections make a day trip tricky, but it might be high time that I spent a bit longer over there.
While on the subject of a few days around Northumberland, my brain wandered inland to Wooler where I began to consider using St. Cuthbert's Way for heading west to Kirk Yetholm. Transport (on Sundays and bank holidays, that is; it's reasonable on other days) and other practicalities set me to considering the following of the Borders Abbeys Way for getting to Kelso for onward travel. Another walking option in the area would be going east along St. Cuthbert's Way towards the coast where travel connections are better of a Sunday.
After that mental meander inland, it is time to return to the intended subject for this posting. That takes me to Arran, another part of the world where I haven't been for a few years since I walked to the top of Goatfell on Easter Sunday in 2006. Then, I got mixed weather with hail near the summit, a patch of snow on the path on the way down and a deluge that beset me while making my way back to my lodgings for the night. The next day, I took a bus ride around the island with occasional showers never far away. There is a coastal path to complement the bumpy stuff in the north of the island and that is what brings the island into this discussion. A return is long-overdue and following part of the island's coastline would make a good excuse to spend more time there again.
Turning south brings me to the Isle of Man and its coastal path. To date, the island has received just a single solitary flying visit, and I am tempted by the prospect of spending a bit more time seeing more of the place. It has its hills too, but you sometimes can get to know what lies inland while peering in from the coast. So far, it is largely uncharted terrain for me and that might be adding a certain frisson of novelty to the idea too.
Staying on a southward trajectory takes me to another part of the world where I haven't been for next to four years: Pembrokeshire. A lengthened weekend down there had me walking from Newgale to St. David's on Saturday, around Marloes on Sunday and around Newport while on the way home on Monday. While there, I got lucky with the weather and the sunshine did plenty of justice to the indented coastline as it wowed me while I took in my ever-changing surroundings. Be warned that there are plenty of ups and downs with gentleness not being a strong point of the gradients. By the end of my walk on Saturday, it was time for a well-earned rest after the way that my leg muscles had been exercised along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. It may feel that I have taken in a lot, I only have nibbled at the national trail, so there's much more to savour yet.
There is a reason why I am sticking with a few examples of coastal trails for now: there are loads and enacted legislation is to provide more access, so there must be a certain something to exploring coastline for more than me. Navigation generally is easy, and the scenery can be an intoxicating mix too. Some walk may walk right around Britain or another island, but I'll content myself with pleasing sections like those mentioned above. Others such as the Fife Coastal Path, the Gower and the South West Coast Path are there should I ever decide on exploring very new horizons but pacing myself feels more sensible. Plenty of tempting options exist that are nearer to me and keeping closer to home mightn't be such a bad plan.
In its own way, the forthcoming bank holiday weekend set all of this off. It looks like bringing a mixture of weather to us but don't they all? Even so, I have concocted some sort of scheme to break me away from the day-to-day routine. As is my habit, I'll leave it to work out how it will before saying more on here.
Very alike but not the same: an ascent of Y Llethr from Dyffryn Ardudwy
26th April 2010 This past weekend has been a lazier one than the one before it, when I took myself down to Dyffryn Ardudwy with the idea of walking to the top of Y Llethr. Fatigue had a lot to do with the stasis, as did floundering with options as to what I could be doing; it is difficult to get more enthused for one idea over another when your brain is tired. That option perusal hasn't gone to waste because it has added ideas to the proverbial shelf for future outings, especially with a bank holiday weekend ahead of us. Thoughts of taking in sections of long-distance trails in places like Northumberland, Pembrokeshire or even the Isle of Man have come to mind, so who knows what might come of them.
In the midst of all this mulling over prospective escapades, it struck me as to how easy it is to make reaching a hill top the fulcrum of a walk. A long-distance trail needs room to breathe and so takes up more room on the landscape, whereas hummocks can be stuffed next to anywhere. The observation also illustrates how you can gravitate towards summits when there are few other objectives about, something that can lead you down a slippery slope that takes you up more gradients. However, if I have anything to do with it, I'll be following up the ascent of Y Llethr with trail walking for the sake of variety if nothing else.
Returning to the Welsh outing in question, the idea came from a previous hike to the top of Diffwys from Dyffryn Ardudwy. Spying Y Llethr across the valley from me was what set the brain to thinking. There is a horseshoe walk that takes in Crib-y-Rhiw as well, but it isn't something that I'd try on a day trip from home. In fact, sorting accommodation in the area for a night or two would be well rewarded with some poking around Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach made possible along with the aforementioned horseshoe. Terry Marsh's Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia has put a few possibilities into my head, and they aren't all walks to summits either; he starts the Diffwys-Y Llethr horseshoe from Talybont, an interesting choice. After all, this is a wilder side of Wales that guarantees plenty of space and calm for those times when you need to escape the frenetic pace of the modern world. It's as near the emptiness of the Scottish Highlands as you'll find in the principality.
My Y Llethr hill outing was to have me reprising much of my walk to Diffwys with a twist. For the sake of variety, I used a different way from Dyffryn that avoided the megalithic tombs that I usually pass. That landed me further up Ffordd Gors and Cors y Gedol was passed without much further ado to pick up the non-metalled track for Llyn Bodlyn. The turn-off for Pont Scethin that I followed at the start of February was passed and not taken. What I was after was a clear path to my left that would take me up the slopes towards Y Llethr. I was already seeing signs of where I was headed when a labouring mountain biker passed me and later left the road to gain some height, using part of the path that I needed.
That cue from one of the few people that I encountered on my walk was more than useful. He may have gone left at a fork unmarked on my OL18 map, but once off the gravel track yet still on sound ground, I easily made out the direction that I needed. Going uphill granted views over Llyn Bodlyn without the gradients being overly harsh. Still, they were sufficient to make my pins remind me of what I did to them on the side of Moel Siabod the week before. Next up was the wall on Moelyblithcwm that I was to shadow loosely for much of the way. The track that I was following stayed with gentler gradients, even if that meant wandering away from the wall for much of the time. Eventually, it sent me through boggy ground, from which I emerged to find a stile that brought me over the wall to the final steep approach to the top of Y Llethr.
Steady, unhurried progress was what the final steep pull up to the flat top of Y Llethr. The summit was left to come towards me in its own good time, with vistas opening up more and more as I gained height. Moelfre was an unmissable feature through my out and back yomp, and it was to the west of me now. To the south, Crib-y-Rhiw lay temptingly at hand, with Diffwys beyond the ridge. Maybe it was that proximity that put walking up Y Llethr into my head last February. Cadair Idris and others like it were nearby too, though they were hazy on the day.
Once on the summit, I could gaze upon Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr to the north; the views were finally verging on being 360º. It was at this point that I was joined by two walkers coming up from the other side. After exchanging a few words, I wandered over a little to gain better views of Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach before descending on a route of my own making before I reached the stile that I had crossed earlier. Beyond the stile, I stayed with the wall and encountered some very soft mossy stuff underfoot before things dried up ahead of a stony canter downhill before I again picked up the track that had brought me uphill and stuck with it for the rest of the descent to the reservoir track. By now, the sun had changed position such that good photographic fodder was on offer behind me and I didn't waste it, even if it were to cost me time.
Knowing the distance that I had yet to travel after reaching the Llyn Bodlyn track, I paced myself so as not to miss my train home. Photographic pit stops were unavoidable given how the evening was going, even if I was mindful of the time. From Cors y Gedol Hall downhill, I stayed on Ffordd Gors like I did last February. Though there were a few hours left in the day, the sun was beginning to lower as I shortened the distance I had left to travel. It had all the hallmarks of an idyllic end to a good day's walking and acted as a reminder of summer too. All the while, I stocked up on refreshments in Dyffryn and caught that train home as planned. The sun may have been declining as it travelled down the Cambrian coast, but the enjoyment wasn't over so quickly.
Travel arrangements:
Return train journey from Macclesfield and Dyffryn Ardudwy. Changes on the outbound journey were at Stoke-on-Trent and Wolverhampton. On the way back, they were at Shrewsbury (due to the small matter of only two out of the four carriages continuing for Birmingham) and Wolverhampton.
Getting greener
21st April 2010 Every year in the second half of April, nature does its act of greening up any bare branches with delightful hues. Some years, this change creeps up on me, no matter how hard I try not to miss it until it's nearly done. This year, I seem to be catching it as it progresses. The apparent order, from my less expert observations anyway, seems to commence with hedgerows before small trees with their larger counterparts bringing up the rear. This may be a misimpression, but it is how it looks to me.
What compliments all of this is the weather. While there has been haze and cloud at times, this April has been a month with blue skies and sunshine for much of its time with us. It is true to say that yesterday and today saw temperatures that were incompatible with sunbathing, yet two weekend visits to Wales have seen me encounter very mild temperatures. Personally, I can cope with cooler temperatures, but I tend to enjoy the countryside while on the move, therefore generating my own heat as I go. Well, it's not for nothing that the saying advises against casting a clout until May is out and there's another about keeping well covered I there's an "r" in the month (in its name, of course).
Still, this largely settled spell of bright weather only can improve one's mood and put a skip in your step. At least, it does that for me and might explain a run of walking weekends too. In fact, it might be the cause of my taking a diversion around by Nether Alderley, Alderley Edge (the geological feature and not the village of the same name) and Over Alderley while cycling home from work. Well, you shouldn't be wasting a pleasant evening, even if it feels a bit chilly. Seeing all the paths around the National Trust's property around the Edge has planted an idea in my mind of having a stroll around what's there. When I see well-maintained paths, my curiosity is aroused and the prospect of a bit of exploration is very tempting. Thus, I have placed the idea of spending a few hours exploring around when time doesn't allow me to go further afield. Until now, my visits have been fleeting and mostly in fading light, so it's time that I did it some justice, and it might reward me with some pleasing photos too. The age of daffodils may be fading but bluebells (or wild hyacinths as I was reading in a copy of The Scots Magazine on the way back from Dyffryn Ardudwy; apparently Scottish Bluebells are not what you think) are around the corner. Let's hope that whatever weather comes to us allows for some enjoyment of their splendour.
A little something in monochrome
20th April 2010 The hazy conditions that pervaded while I mounted Moel Siabod on the way from Dolwyddelan to Capel Curig didn't make photography an easy pursuit. However, I still had well lit photos though the haziness made me wonder how they'd come out in black and white. Regular readers might remember the colour versions of these from a previous posting, but I thought that I'd share anyway. Maybe my approach to the world of monochrome should be more deliberate but, unless you try, you aren't going to learn what works and what doesn't. Then, you can imagine what results you might get. That might explain my trust in my ageing yet trusty Pentax K10D for image capturing duties: I have a good feel for what it does, and it helps when attempting to translate the scene that's in front of me into a photo.
A developing pattern?
19th April 2010 Unusually for me, my walking escapades seem to involve my reaching more summits than usually has been the case. In fact, finding some sort of hummock to ascend has formed part of my planning in the last few months. The most recent example of this was an out and back hike to Y Llethr from Dyffryn Ardudwy over the past weekend. That followed a yomp over Moel Siabod the previous weekend and there was an ascent of Diffwys in early February. Thus, three outings to Wales have come to pass so far this year and Terry Marsh's Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia (Cicerone) might inspire more yet.
Mark Richard's Great Mountain Days in the Lake District should be encouraging a few too but I only have January's spur of the moment crossing of Place Fell to record for 2010. Still, that now looks as if it was start of a pattern where reaching hilltops has been playing a large role in my hill country outings. Even when I went to Scotland, I ended up on a unnamed though snow blanketed foothill of Bynack More when I had intended to stay low (boggy ground stalled my initial scheme). As if to continue high level hiking, an Easter crossing of Baslow Edge, Curbar Edge and Froggatt Edge needs to be mentioned too. With all of this falling into place, it may be a matter of time before that first Munro gets ascended and there are a few candidates in the Cairngorms that have caught my eye but there's no rush on that one.
All of this action may look like peak bagging but that is an incidental upshot rather than the avowed aim of the exercise. If creating some list of hills climbed was the aim, I wouldn't be bobbing around the place in such an unplanned manner. Going up hills is for me a device for propelling me out of doors when the weather makes an offer. It used to be that exploring somewhere or a new angle to an old favourite did the job on its own but adding a hill top has been giving form to plans in place of finding a tempting path or track on a map. Quite where all this is leading me is another matter but I'll enjoy the countryside along the way and share that (and any decent photos that I make) with you afterwards. Now, I need to find time to say more about that flying visit to Y Llethr...
