For me, journeys often weave along city streets or wander through remote landscapes, spanning from European familiarity to North American unknowns. While each of these begins with inevitable preparation, it is the art of embracing the unexpected that brings these experiences to life. Every step, whether through bustling cityscapes or tranquil countryside, adds another piece to this evolving anthology of exploration. As new horizons continue to beckon, I look forward to sharing more discoveries with you, letting each journey inspire the next in an endless quest for wonder.
Estimated reading time: 9 minutes
There was a time when I was asked where some sunshine holiday destination was, it might have been Arrecife, and I had no idea. They were just names on an airport destination board that meant nothing to me. Any resulting ribbing back then might have been unwarranted, though. Possible reasons follow below.
Then, sunshine destinations were beyond my horizons for at least two reasons: the first was that I did not go that far away back then, and the second was that active holiday making was more in keeping with my sensibilities. The idea of a classic sunshine holiday, with its combination of remaining sedentary on a beach or partying into the night, was never attractive to me and that has not changed.
However, mass market holiday making often paints a caricature of many sun-blessed destinations, particularly when it comes to package holidays. Just look at the likes of Thomas Cook, TUI, First Choice or Cosmos and you should see what I mean. That comment applies as much to the Canary Islands as it does to their Balearic counterparts in the Mediterranean or any other similar destinations. Both of the aforementioned archipelagos offer much more than this. Once you start to examine the possibilities in depth, what is there can surprise you.
When I got to look into the Canary Islands for a mid-winter getaway, I found that I needed to make choices. The time that I had available meant that I had to stick with just one of them. After all, there are five main islands nestled in the Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of Africa that have a range of diverse landscapes (there are several National Parks here).
The general attraction of a mild climate with an average temperature of 22° C remains, too. That makes these Spanish islands a haven for sun-seekers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. Each island in this archipelago has its own unique personality, promising visitors a varied experience. For making decisions, we need to look at each island in turn.
Tenerife, the largest of the Canaries, became my choice for a mid-winter escape from the greyness of Western Europe. The island is dominated by Spain's country top, Mount Teide, which is visible from many other vantage points, as I found on my explorations. While visitors can take a cable car ride to the summit for the well elevated views, I stuck with experiencing part of the bare rocky landscape of Teide National Park. The island's capital, Santa Cruz, became my base, which allowed for adventurous hikes in the island's northeast. Many may go for the golden beaches of the south coast, but I was occupied by what I had nearer to me.
Gran Canaria lives up to its nickname of a 'miniature continent', featuring landscapes that range from the rolling sand dunes of Maspalomas to the lush forests of the interior. The historic capital, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, offers a perfect blend of culture, shopping, and beautiful urban beaches. This is not the sole urban centre on the island, for there also is historic Telde in the Agüimes municipality on the east coast.
Lanzarote's unique volcanic landscapes are complemented by the artistic touch of César Manrique. Travellers can visit the otherworldly Timanfaya National Park or relax on the pristine beaches of Papagayo. It is not all about natural attractions either, since Agaete, Teguise, and Puerta del Carmen all vie for exploration. Even so, this is not known as the Land of Volcanoes for nothing.
For those seeking a centre for watersports, Fuerteventura boasts over 150 km of white sandy beaches, making it a haven for surfers, windsurfers, and kitesurfers. Wind helps with these, so there is some consistency in its having an alternate title of Hurricane Island. Otherwise, the island's laid-back vibe and stunning natural beauty make it perfect for those seeking both relaxation and activities. In some ways, it is telling that the island's capital is a port town: Puerta del Rosario. In its own way, that reinforces the water-based outlook of this destination.
Nature lovers and hikers will find their idyll in La Palma, known as "La Isla Bonita". Its dramatic landscapes range from lush forests to volcanic craters, and it's renowned as one of the world's best stargazing destinations. It is not for nothing that is sought for its mix of hiking trails and volcanic pools.
La Gomera, with its UNESCO-listed Garajonay National Park, offers over 600 km of hiking trails through ancient laurel forests. No one should leave without hearing the unique whistling language, Silbo Gomero, the cause of its alternate title of Whistling Island. In addition, visitors can explore charming villages, enjoy local cuisine, and participate in outdoor activities like whale watching.
For those seeking an eco-friendly escape, the smallest of the main islands, El Hierro, is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and Global Geopark (one of 94 European Geoparks), offering a tranquil and sustainable haven for diving enthusiasts and nature lovers. This also is the southernmost of the main islands, covering an area of 268.71 square kilometres and featuring rugged terrain, steep cliffs, and diverse ecosystems, including laurel forests and geothermal springs. The island's mild climate contributes to its lush vegetation, while its cultural heritage is celebrated through unique festivals like the Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes. There was a time when it was considered the prime meridian before Greenwich; hence, it has an alternate soubriquet of Meridian Island.
There is no shortage of ways to move around the Canary Islands, some interisland and some intra-island. Some may fancy island hopping, though you need to allow time for that. Most pick an island and leave it at that; it fits that classic relaxation model that many have in mind. Given the pressures of modern life, it might be just what they need. Whatever your leanings are, there is an internal travel option to suit you.
Both Binter Canarias and Canaryfly offer frequent flights between islands, while ferry companies like Fred Olsen Express, Naviera Armas Trasmediterránea, Líneas Blue Bird, Naviera Nortour, Biosfera Express and Líneas Romero provide a variety of sailings. The first two ferry companies work across the entire archipelago, and there are links to mainland Spain too. Others are more local: for example, Líneas Blue Bird primarily operates between Tenerife and La Gomera while Naviera Nortour goes between Fuerteventura and Lobos Island with glass-bottomed boats. Otherwise, both Líneas Romero and Biosfera Express link Lanzarote with La Graciosa, while the former also sails between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. Some of the routes get a frequent service, and many sailings convey vehicles and foot passengers alike. Whichever way you go, booking ahead is advisable.
Each island has its own bus network, known locally as 'guaguas', with Tenerife even featuring a modern tram system in its capital, Santa Cruz, a service that complements the island-wide Titsa bus network. The names of some bus networks tell you where they serve; Arrecife Bus (serving the capital of Lanzarote), TransHierro and Guagua Gomera are obvious examples here. Others are more cryptic: TILP for La Palma (though the last two letters might be a hint), Guaguas Municipales for Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Guaguas Global for Gran Canaria and TIADHE for Fuerteventura. All should help with getting you to where you need to be.
Accommodation options in the Canaries cater to all tastes and budgets, from luxury resorts to charming rural houses. For a unique experience, consider staying in one of the Paradores - historic buildings converted into hotels. Some options involve rentals, and examples include Anyka Sur and Marcus Management Services on Tenerife, as well as Turismo Rural Isla Bonita on La Palma (the name might give it away). A travel agency or concierge could have a use if you fancy something a little more unique.
Wherever you choose to stay, make sure that you are well-positioned to enjoy experiences like stargazing in La Palma's Roque de los Muchachos Observatory, hiking through the dramatic Barranco del Infierno in Tenerife, exploring the otherworldly landscapes of Timanfaya National Park in Lanzarote, or surfing the waves of Fuerteventura's world-class beaches. Naturally, your choices depend on your interests, and everyone is different.
When planning your trip, keep in mind that while the islands enjoy great weather year-round, visiting in spring or autumn can mean fewer crowds. Winter can work well too, as I know from my own experiences. Summer does bring warmer temperatures, yet they are not excessive and are nothing like the heart of a continental landmass, where 40° C can be exceeded. You are talking about a typical annual range of 15° C to 25° C here, with 27° C being a possible maximum.
For those coming from afar (and that frankly is most of us), major airports on Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura receive flights from across Europe. For getting to smaller ones like La Palma or El Hierro, you need to factor in the time for onward travel by air or sea. That may mean staying longer to give you a chance to experience what these other spots have to offer.
Of course, there is no point of planning to visit those if you cannot get through immigration. That is visa-less for EU citizens, but others should check the latest requirements before travelling. Just make sure your passport is in order and that you are in possession of it before travelling.
There are choices to make when you are going to the Canary Islands. The menu includes relaxation on sun-kissed beaches, adrenaline-pumping water sports, fascinating volcanic landscapes, or rich cultural experiences. After that, you need to pick an island or more to explore. Most likely settle on one, and getting to La Palma, El Hierro or Gomera needs a bit more planning, especially when it comes to the logistics of travel and accommodation. Since that extra effort should be rewarded, it should be no obstacle as long as there is enough time. Even so, you can make your trip to the Canary Islands as easy as you need; many make do with package holidays. Even then, there should be no barrier to variety.