Mallorca's Wilder, More Natural Side
During the autumn of 2016, my mind began to turn to a first mid-winter hiking escape between Christmas and New Year. Various possibilities were surveyed and a selection of Cicerone guidebooks perused. In the end, I settled on Mallorca. Then, I could set to booking flights and accommodation, possibly using Skyscanner because there were too many things happening in my life to look around very much.
The whole trip has been documented on the outdoors blog in three parts: arrival and first full day, second full day, third full day and departure. These feature explorations of various parts of the island, including Palma, Serra de Tramuntana, Sóller, Port de Pollença, and Port d'Andratx. This was a sojourn focussed on hiking experiences, particularly in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and wilder parts of the coastline. The lure was the island's natural beauty and mild winter climate, rather than cultural aspects, even if Palma's cathedral and royal quarters were a big draw for someone interested in photography.
Trouble with a Caricature
Much of this is a world away from the usual caricature of the place and other destinations like in the Mediterranean. Many will think of its beaches and vibrant nightlife instead of the more nature-based pursuits that I relish. Millions do relish the former, many of these coming from the U.K. and Germany. For beach lovers, the range extends from lively resorts to secluded coves. If you are there during summer, then being sedentary during the day and more active at night does have a certain logic to it, given the heat at that time of year.
If you want to be more active during daylight hours (even if there are less of them per day), going for the shoulder seasons or winter makes more sense. For the latter, it offers respite from the drabness of northern European winters. It also helps that the hiking possibilities are numerous. Even away from the heat of summer, just make sure that you carry plenty of water and use sun protection.
Hiking
As it happens, Mallorca has its own mountain range: the Serra de Tramuntana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is through those mountains that the GR221 or Dry Stone Route passes, a multi-day long-distance route that is 135 km (84 miles) in length. Aside from walking part of its length as I did, there are other hikes to be savoured in these parts. One is the Camí de s'Arxiduc, an historic trail that offers a glimpse into Mallorca's past. Handily, it is well-marked and suitable for various skill levels. For those who fancy bagging a mountain summit, there is the moderately challenging ascent of Puig de Massanella, the second-highest peak on the island, standing at 1,364 m (4,475 ft) and rewarding hikers with views of the surrounding mountains and coastline. Naturally, there are other possibilities, so consulting a good guidebook is invaluable here (those from Cicerone and Rother are worth checking).
Naturally for an island, there is coastal walking too. One possibility is the Boquer Valley, where a moderate hike that starts near Port de Pollença, leading to Cala Boquer. This route passes through olive groves and offers opportunities for swimming in crystal-clear waters if that is your thing. There also is The Old Postman’s Route, a scenic walk and easy hike from Esporles to Banyalbufar that showcases ancient Moorish terraces and takes about 2.5 hours to complete. After these, the ascent of Puig de Maria is a family-friendly hike near Pollença, and this trail takes approximately 45 minutes to reach the summit. At the top, hikers can enjoy a historic monastery and views of the bay.
Other Outdoors Options
Hiking and walking is my main way of experiencing the outdoors, but others have different interests. Water sports enthusiasts can indulge in kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and jet skiing, whilst landlubbers might fancy tackling the island's climbing routes or embarking on exhilarating canyoning adventures. Cycling aficionados will find themselves spoilt for choice with an array of mountain biking trails, and those yearning for a bird's-eye view can take to the skies parasailing. There should be enough choice for anyone from any of these.
More Sociable Pursuits
My needs in the winter of 2016 involving seeking quietude to still an uneasy and wounded spirit; that was easily available once I got away from any conurbation. Others, though, may be more convivial than this. After all, there is a vibrant cultural scene with numerous festivals throughout the year. The Pollença Festival, for example, showcases music and arts in a picturesque setting, while the island is also home to many artists and writers who have found inspiration in its landscapes. It, too, has a rich history dating back to Roman times when it was known as Palmaria. Over the centuries, it has been influenced by various cultures, including the Moors, who significantly shaped its architecture and agriculture. The capital city, Palma, originally founded as a Roman camp, became a cultural hub under Moorish rule and has retained many historical landmarks.
Going There
Since Mallorca is an island, travelling there is going to involve going by sea or by air. The latter is the more common mode, with over 31 million passengers doing so in 2023. That makes Palma de Mallorca Airport, also known as Son Sant Joan Airport, located 8 km east of Palma, into Spain's third-busiest airport. The former is useful for those living in France or mainland Spain than those located further afield and gets you into Palma or Alcúdia.
The air network from Palma de Mallorca Airport consists of over 70 airlines that are serving approximately 169 destinations. Thus, many are going to find direct flight options to Mallorca from an airport not far away from them. Ferry travel to and from Mallorca is facilitated by several companies, offering diverse routes for travellers. Of these, Baleària provides multiple connections between Mallorca and mainland Spain (Barcelona, Valencia, and Dénia) and is known for its efficient fast ferry services. Then, Corsica Ferries caters primarily for French travellers, operating routes from Toulon to Alcúdia. Lastly, Trasmed offers both passenger and vehicle transport services, connecting the Barcelona on the Spanish mainland with Mallorca.
Regardless of the mode, all of these collectively provide a range of options for travel to and from Mallorca, accommodating various travel preferences and origins; some also offer connections between the different Balearic Islands. Naturally, onward travel options for passengers include regular bus services to and from Palma and other island destinations, as well as taxis and car rentals. Creature comforts like shops and restaurants are part of the packages and maybe even VIP lounges and free Wi-Fi, too.
Getting Around
While it is possible to hire a car to travel around Mallorca, that is not a necessity unless you are bound for somewhere really remote. Naturally, there are taxis, which was just as well when there was little sign of the shuttle bus that I had booked to meet me at the airport on arrival. However, the public transport sufficed for my needs. Trains were not so useful for me, but the bus network got me to and from everywhere that I wanted to go. Mostly, these were well-used too, so there is an element of sustainability to the system.
Palma is served by an extensive bus network operated by EMT, running from early morning to late night, complemented by a weekend NitBus service. This is complemented by a two-line metro system, and the MobiPalma app aids navigation by providing real-time information. For interurban travel, TIB operates red and yellow buses connecting Palma with various municipalities, while train services link Palma to towns like Sóller and Inca. While public transport is efficient within urban areas, reaching remote locations may require additional planning. Overall, Mallorca's public transport system provides a viable means of exploration, especially for those focusing on the island's more populous parts.
Final Reflections
Looking again at what Mallorca has to offer, there may be scope for a return. The first encounter was against the backdrop of a busy life with its share of stress and strain. The break should have been longer than a few days to allow me to recuperate; the relaxation made me aware that I was feeling under the weather about life, something that changed the way that 2017 was going to go for me.
When planning any future trip, other portals like Welcome to Mallorca, Mallorca Now, The Other Mallorca, Yo Soy Mallorca and abcMallorca likely will have their uses. There also is View Mallorca for finding out what is happening there as much as getting ideas about where to walk and hike. All should be useful. There just needs to be a less cluttered life surrounding any such trip there.
