Category: Trip Ideas
Renovations
9th February 2026 About this time of year, I often introduce some changes to the appearances or the fundamentals of this website. While this does not happen every year, it has taken place in the last few weeks, informed but not performed by AI in some instances. The last time that this happened was in the age before AI came into our lives, when more dramatic visual changes were made on moving to a more recent version of Bootstrap.
On the back end, the Travel and Surroundings sections have been moved from Textpattern to Grav in the interests of modernisation, going from infrequently updated software to something that has a more active open-source community behind it. This also offered some scope for visual changes too, especially for the landing page of the Travel section. It also allowed for some restructuring of the content.
The same thinking was applied to the site home page to give visitors less cognitive load as they figured out what to explore on this portal. Other places on here got some of the same visual freshening as well. Things are settling into place now, yet there will be more scope for tinkering as time brings sensible and compatible ideas and opportunities for doing so.
Naturally, my mind turns to content, too. Given how sluggish I am with writing trip reports, there are plenty of those to come from previous times. It does not matter so much yet that 2025 was a slack year for hill wandering, and 2026 has fallen into a wet and windy rut so far, limiting possibilities as much as a busy work life.
Nevertheless, some plots are afoot. For instance, Irish hiking ideas were collected during the festive period, with some pondering of transport practicalities that made it in the previous post on here. Scotland's Lochaber and Norway's Oslo offer prospects, while Canada could be a stretch target if I fancy crossing the Atlantic this year. It is too early to say exactly how things will go, leaving scope for some surprises as the year goes on its way. Nice surprises are always welcome gifts.
Exploring Irish walking routes using buses and trains
8th February 2026 Ireland's reputation as a walker's paradise has long been established, but what many visitors and residents alike may not fully appreciate is just how accessible many of these spectacular routes have become through public transport. The transformation of rural bus services, particularly through the Connecting Ireland initiative and the expansion of Local Link networks, has fundamentally altered the landscape of car-free hiking across the island. What was once considered impractical or impossible without private transport has, in many cases, become genuinely feasible for those willing to consult timetables and plan their journeys with care.
The evolution of public transport access to walking routes represents one of the most significant developments in Irish outdoor recreation in recent years. Services that barely existed a decade ago now provide regular connections to some of the country's most celebrated trails and peaks. This shift has been particularly pronounced in areas that were traditionally viewed as remote and inaccessible, such as the Beara Peninsula in west Cork and the Burren coastal region in Clare. The introduction of dedicated rural services has not merely improved access but has fundamentally changed the character of these areas as walking destinations, opening them up to a much broader range of visitors who previously would have been excluded by the necessity of car ownership or rental.
Understanding the current state of public transport access requires moving beyond vague assertions about nearby towns and examining the actual proximity of bus stops to trailheads. The difference between a service that deposits walkers at a village five kilometres from the start of a route and one that stops directly at a car park or visitor centre is substantial, particularly when considering return journeys, daylight hours and the physical demands of the walk itself. This distinction becomes even more critical when evaluating routes in winter months, when shorter days and unpredictable weather make long road approaches significantly more challenging.
The Dublin and Wicklow Mountains: Ireland's Most Accessible Uplands
The Dublin and Wicklow Mountains stand apart as the most comprehensively served walking region in Ireland from a public transport perspective. The combination of frequent DART services, extensive Go-Ahead Ireland bus routes and the crucial Local Link 895 service to Glendalough creates a network that rivals anything found in more celebrated European walking destinations. The Howth Cliff Walk exemplifies this accessibility, with DART trains arriving every ten to fifteen minutes throughout the day and the trail beginning immediately beside the harbour. This level of convenience extends to other coastal routes such as Killiney Hill and Bray Head, where rail services deliver walkers directly to the start of their chosen route without any need for road walking or taxi transfers.
The introduction of Local Link services SD3 and SD4, running from Tallaght to Bohernabreena and Tibradden Wood respectively, has opened up the Dublin Mountains in ways that would have seemed impossible just a few years ago. Routes such as Ticknock and the Fairy Castle Loop, once firmly in the category of requiring private transport, now enjoy direct bus access to their trailheads. This transformation has been particularly significant for Kippure, where the combination of these services provides genuine car-free access to upland walking that was previously the preserve of those with vehicles.
Glendalough represents perhaps the single most important development in Irish walking accessibility. The Local Link 895 service from Sallins delivers walkers directly to both the Upper and Lower Lake car parks, eliminating what was historically one of the most frustrating gaps in the public transport network. The Wicklow Way, Ireland's oldest waymarked trail, benefits enormously from this service, as do the popular routes around the Spinc and Glenealo Valley. The frequency and reliability of this service during the main walking season has effectively removed Glendalough from the list of destinations requiring careful timetable consultation, placing it firmly in the category of spontaneous day trip possibilities.
The more remote Wicklow routes present a more mixed picture. Lugnaquilla, Ireland's highest mountain outside Kerry, remains challenging to access without private transport, particularly when approaching via the Glen of Imaal. While bus services do reach the general area, the walk-in from the nearest stops is substantial, and return journey timing requires careful planning. Similarly, routes in the Wicklow Gap area, including approaches to Camaderry and Tonelagee, depend on infrequent services that demand advance planning and flexibility. These routes fall into the category of feasible but requiring commitment, rather than the straightforward accessibility of Glendalough or Howth.
Kerry: The Killarney National Park Advantage
County Kerry presents an interesting contrast in accessibility, with the Killarney area offering some of the finest car-free mountain walking in Ireland while more remote peninsular routes remain challenging. Killarney town functions as a genuine transport hub, with frequent rail services from Dublin, Cork and Limerick complemented by extensive bus networks serving the surrounding area. This infrastructure supports an exceptional range of walking options, from gentle lakeside strolls to serious mountain ascents, all accessible without private transport.
Torc Mountain, Mangerton and Purple Mountain form part of a cluster of routes that benefit directly from Killarney's transport connections. While these are substantial mountain walks requiring fitness and appropriate equipment, the logistics of reaching their starting points present no particular difficulty. Bus services run regularly into Killarney National Park, and the distances involved in walking from bus stops to trailheads are modest. This combination of serious mountain terrain with straightforward access is relatively unusual in Ireland and represents one of the strongest arguments for Killarney as a base for car-free walking holidays.
The Dingle Peninsula has seen significant improvements in bus service provision, with Bus Éireann route 275 and various Local Link services creating a network that supports linear walking along sections of the Dingle Way. Brandon Mountain, one of Ireland's most celebrated peaks, benefits from bus services to Brandon and Cloghane villages, placing the main ascent routes within reasonable walking distance of public transport. The peninsula's coastal routes, including sections around Inch Strand and the approaches to Dunquin, are similarly accessible, though the more remote western headlands still present challenges for those without vehicles.
The Iveragh Peninsula, home to the Ring of Kerry and the MacGillycuddy's Reeks, offers more limited public transport options. While bus services do reach key towns such as Cahersiveen and Waterville, the interior mountain routes remain difficult to access without private transport. The classic Reeks ridge walk, including Carrauntoohil, Ireland's highest peak, typically requires either a taxi to Cronin's Yard or a very long walk-in from the nearest bus stops. This situation reflects the broader challenge of providing public transport to remote mountain areas where population density is low and demand is seasonal.
West Cork: The Beara and Sheep's Head Transformation
The transformation of west Cork's accessibility represents one of the most dramatic improvements in Irish walking infrastructure in recent years. The introduction of Local Link route 263, running from Castletownbere to Allihies and continuing to the Dursey cable car, has converted what was once a firmly car-dependent region into one of Ireland's premier car-free walking destinations. This single service has opened up not just individual walks but entire linear routes along the Beara Way, allowing walkers to use the bus for repositioning and creating genuine multi-day walking possibilities without vehicle support.
Dursey Island exemplifies this transformation. The Local Link service stops directly at the cable car terminal, with multiple departures throughout the day allowing for flexible planning. What was previously an awkward destination requiring either a long taxi journey or a very extended walk from the nearest bus stop has become one of the most accessible island walks in Ireland. The island itself offers spectacular coastal scenery and a genuine sense of remoteness, all now available to those travelling by public transport alone.
The Sheep's Head Peninsula has benefited similarly from Local Link route 232, which serves Kilcrohane and provides access to the lighthouse loop and other coastal routes. The peninsula's relatively modest scale and the positioning of the bus service make it particularly suitable for day walks, with the added advantage of being less crowded than some of the more celebrated Kerry routes. The combination of dramatic coastal scenery, good paths and reliable public transport has established Sheep's Head as a model for what can be achieved when rural bus services are designed with walkers' needs in mind.
Gougane Barra, while served by public transport, presents more challenges due to limited service frequency. The location's popularity and scenic appeal make it a worthwhile destination, but the need to coordinate arrival and departure times with infrequent bus services requires more careful planning than routes with hourly or more frequent services. This situation is not uncommon in rural Ireland, where the existence of a bus service does not automatically translate to the kind of flexibility that urban dwellers might expect.
Clare and the Burren: Coastal Excellence
County Clare, particularly the Burren region and the Atlantic coast, offers some of Ireland's most reliable car-free walking opportunities. The Burren Coastal Trail benefits from multiple bus services, including Bus Éireann route 350 and various Local Link services, creating a network that supports linear coastal walking between villages such as Doolin, Fanore and Ballyvaughan. The frequency of services during the main tourist season, combined with the relatively short distances between stops, makes this one of the most flexible walking areas in the country for those without cars.
Black Head and the northern Burren coast are particularly well served, with bus stops positioned to allow for various combinations of coastal and inland walking. The terrain, while sometimes challenging underfoot due to the characteristic limestone pavement, is generally accessible and the paths are well established. The combination of geological interest, archaeological sites and dramatic coastal scenery makes this area particularly rewarding for walkers, and the public transport infrastructure supports extended visits without the need for vehicle hire.
Loop Head, at the southwestern extremity of Clare, has seen improvements in accessibility through Local Link route 339, which operates a circular service from Kilkee. While service frequency is more limited than on the Burren coast, the existence of a scheduled service to this remote peninsula represents a significant improvement over previous arrangements. The Loop Head cliff walks offer spectacular Atlantic views and a genuine sense of being at the edge of Europe, all now accessible through a combination of Bus Éireann services to Kilkee and the Local Link connection to the headland.
The Cliffs of Moher, while primarily known as a coach tour destination, are also accessible to independent walkers using public transport. Bus services to Doolin and Liscannor provide access to the cliff-top paths, though the crowds at the main visitor centre can be substantial during peak season. The coastal path extending north from the cliffs towards Black Head offers a quieter alternative and demonstrates the value of using public transport to access less visited sections of popular routes.
Mayo and the West: Mixed Accessibility
County Mayo presents perhaps the most varied picture of any Irish county in terms of walking accessibility. Croagh Patrick, Ireland's holy mountain, stands out as exceptionally well served, with Bus Éireann route 450 stopping at Murrisk directly beside the main trailhead. The mountain's cultural and religious significance, combined with this excellent transport access, makes it one of the most feasible serious mountain walks for those without cars. The ascent is demanding and requires proper equipment and fitness, but the logistics of reaching the start point present no particular difficulty.
The more remote areas of Mayo, particularly around Ballycroy National Park and the Nephin Beg range, remain challenging for car-free access despite the existence of bus services to the general area. Bus Éireann route 446 serves Ballycroy village, but the distances from bus stops to the main walking routes are substantial, and the infrequency of services makes return journey planning critical. These routes fall firmly into the category of requiring careful advance planning and a willingness to commit to long days that include significant road walking as well as the mountain routes themselves.
Achill Island, connected to the mainland by bridge, receives bus services, but the distances involved in reaching the main walking areas from bus stops are considerable. The island's dramatic coastal scenery and mountain terrain make it a compelling destination, but the practical challenges of car-free access mean that it remains more suitable for those with vehicles or those prepared to use taxis for at least part of their journey. Clare Island and Inishturk, requiring ferry connections in addition to bus travel, present similar challenges, though the ferry services themselves are generally reliable during the main season.
Mweelrea, often cited as one of Ireland's finest mountains, is accessible from Leenane village, which is served by Bus Éireann route 423. However, the walk-in from the village to the main ascent routes is substantial, typically four to six kilometres, and the return journey timing needs careful consideration. This situation is characteristic of many Irish mountain routes, where public transport reaches the general area, but the final approach requires significant additional walking on roads or tracks before the mountain route proper begins.
Donegal: Remote Beauty with Improving Access
County Donegal's reputation for remoteness is well deserved, but recent improvements in bus services have made several of its most celebrated walking routes more accessible than might be expected. Slieve League, with its spectacular sea cliffs, benefits from Bus Éireann route 490 to Glencolmcille and Local Link services to Teelin. While a walk-in of three to five kilometres is typically required from the nearest bus stops, this is manageable for fit walkers and the route itself is well established and popular.
Errigal, Donegal's highest and most distinctive peak, is served by bus services to Dunlewey, with the main trailhead approximately two to three kilometres from the nearest stops. This relatively short approach, combined with the mountain's popularity and the good condition of the main path, places Errigal in the category of feasible car-free ascents for those prepared to add the road walking to their day. The mountain's dramatic profile and the quality of the views from the summit make this additional effort worthwhile for many walkers.
Glenveagh National Park presents an interesting case, with bus services reaching Churchill and the park offering its own shuttle services during the main season. The estate road walk from the park entrance to the main walking areas is approximately four kilometres, but this is on good surfaces and through attractive scenery. The park's network of waymarked trails, combined with this reasonable access, makes it one of Donegal's more accessible walking destinations for those without cars.
The more remote areas of Donegal, particularly in Inishowen and around Malin Head, have seen some improvements in Local Link services, but these remain areas where careful planning is essential. Route 954, serving Malin Head from Carndonagh, represents a significant improvement in access to Ireland's most northerly point, though service frequency remains limited. The dramatic coastal scenery and the sense of remoteness make these areas compelling destinations, but they require more commitment and flexibility than more accessible regions.
The Mournes: Northern Ireland's Accessible Mountains
The Mourne Mountains in County Down stand out as one of the most accessible serious mountain areas in Ireland, rivalling even Wicklow in terms of public transport provision. Ulsterbus route 20, running between Belfast and Newcastle, provides frequent services throughout the day, with Newcastle town serving as the base for an exceptional range of mountain routes. Slieve Donard, Northern Ireland's highest peak, can be reached directly from Newcastle town centre, with the main path beginning at the edge of the built-up area.
The concentration of high peaks within walking distance of Newcastle creates unusual opportunities for car-free mountain walking. Slieve Commedagh, Slieve Bearnagh and Slieve Binnian, all substantial mountains requiring fitness and navigation skills, are accessible from the same transport hub. The Mourne Wall, running across the summits of fifteen peaks, provides a navigational aid and a focus for longer mountain days, all achievable without private transport. This combination of serious mountain terrain with excellent public transport access is relatively rare and makes the Mournes particularly attractive for car-free walking holidays.
The lower Mournes and the coastal areas around Newcastle offer gentler alternatives, with forest walks and coastal paths providing options for those seeking less demanding routes. The Bloody Bridge area and the approaches to the Silent Valley reservoir are similarly accessible from Newcastle, creating a range of walking possibilities to suit different abilities and ambitions. The town's facilities, including accommodation, shops and outdoor equipment suppliers, support extended stays focused on walking.
The Midlands and East: Rivers and Canals
The canal and river walks of Ireland's midlands and east represent a different category of walking, generally flatter and more suitable for those seeking gentle exercise rather than mountain challenges. The Royal Canal Way and Grand Canal Way both benefit from excellent public transport access, with numerous rail stations and bus stops along their routes. These linear routes are particularly suitable for one-way walks using public transport at both ends, avoiding the need to return to a starting point.
The Barrow Way, running from Lowtown in County Kildare to St Mullin's in County Carlow, offers similar opportunities, with rail access at several points and Local Link services filling gaps in the network. The towpath walking is generally easy underfoot, and the gradients are minimal, making these routes accessible to a wide range of abilities. The combination of waterside scenery, historical interest and practical accessibility makes these routes particularly valuable for those new to walking or returning to activity after injury or illness.
The Boyne Valley, with its concentration of archaeological sites and historical significance, offers walking opportunities that combine cultural interest with outdoor activity. Bus services to Navan and other towns along the river provide access to various sections of riverside paths, though the network is less developed than the canal routes. The Boyne Ramparts Walk and other waymarked routes in the area benefit from reasonable public transport access, though some sections require more careful planning than the main canal routes.
Practical Considerations for Car-Free Walking
The reality of car-free walking in Ireland requires understanding several practical considerations that go beyond simply identifying which routes have nearby bus services. Service frequency varies enormously, from the multiple trains per hour on the DART to the once or twice daily Local Link services in remote rural areas. This variation has profound implications for planning, particularly regarding return journeys and the consequences of missing a connection.
Timetable consultation is essential, and the assumption that services will be frequent, or that approximate timings will suffice, is dangerous. Many rural services operate only on certain days of the week, and bank holiday schedules often differ significantly from normal patterns. The TFI (Transport for Ireland) journey planner and individual operator websites provide the necessary information, but this needs to be checked close to the date of travel as schedules can change, particularly for Local Link services which may be seasonal or subject to funding variations.
Weather considerations become more significant when dependent on public transport, as the option of simply waiting out a shower in a car park is not available. The commitment to a particular return bus or train means that route planning needs to account for the possibility of deteriorating conditions and the need to turn back with sufficient time to reach the departure point. This is particularly relevant for mountain routes where weather can change rapidly and where the consequences of missing the last bus of the day could be serious.
The question of luggage and equipment also requires consideration. While day sacks present no particular difficulty on public transport, larger rucksacks for multi-day walks can be awkward on busy services, particularly during peak commuting times. Some services, particularly rural buses, have limited luggage space, and advance consideration of this can avoid difficulties. The increasing acceptance of outdoor equipment on public transport has improved this situation, but awareness of other passengers and peak times remains important.
Seasonal Variations and Service Changes
The seasonal nature of many walking routes is matched by seasonal variations in public transport provision. Summer enhancements to services in tourist areas can make routes feasible that would be impractical during winter months, while the reduction in daylight hours during winter makes the timing of return journeys more critical. The combination of these factors means that a route that is straightforward in July might require significantly more planning and commitment in December.
Local Link services, in particular, often operate on seasonal schedules, with enhanced provision during summer months and reduced or suspended services during winter. This pattern reflects both tourist demand and the practical challenges of operating rural services during periods of lower usage. The Connecting Ireland initiative has improved the stability of some services, but the underlying pattern of seasonal variation remains significant in many areas.
Bank holidays and school holidays can bring both opportunities and challenges. Enhanced services on some routes during holiday periods can open up possibilities that do not exist during term time, but increased crowding on popular routes and services can make the experience less pleasant. The balance between accessibility and overcrowding is particularly evident on routes such as Croagh Patrick during the main pilgrimage season or Glendalough on summer weekends.
The Future of Car-Free Walking in Ireland
The trajectory of public transport provision for walking access in Ireland appears generally positive, with the Connecting Ireland programme representing a significant commitment to rural connectivity. However, the sustainability of these improvements depends on continued funding and political will, both of which can be subject to change. The experience of previous decades, when rural bus services were progressively reduced, provides a cautionary reminder that progress is not inevitable and that gains can be reversed.
The integration of walking and public transport in tourism promotion remains underdeveloped compared to some European countries, where car-free access to mountain areas is actively marketed and supported. The potential for Ireland to position itself as a destination for sustainable tourism, where visitors can access spectacular walking routes without contributing to traffic congestion or parking problems, has not been fully realised. The infrastructure improvements of recent years provide a foundation for this, but the marketing and promotion aspects can lag behind the practical provision.
The role of technology in supporting car-free walking continues to evolve, with journey planning apps and real-time service information making the logistics of public transport use more manageable. The TFI Go app and similar tools have improved the accessibility of timetable information, though the multiplicity of operators and ticketing systems can still present challenges for visitors unfamiliar with the Irish transport network. Further integration of these systems would enhance the practical experience of car-free walking.
The environmental arguments for reducing car dependency in accessing walking routes are becoming more prominent, though they have not yet translated into major policy shifts. The contradiction of driving to walk in natural areas is increasingly recognised, and the availability of public transport alternatives provides a practical response to this concern. The extent to which this awareness translates into changed behaviour and increased use of public transport for walking access remains to be seen, but the infrastructure improvements of recent years have at least made this choice more feasible for those who wish to make it.
The current state of car-free walking in Ireland represents a significant improvement over how things were a decade ago, with genuine opportunities now available across much of the country. The concentration of excellent access in areas such as Wicklow, Killarney, west Cork and the Mournes provides strong foundations for car-free walking holidays, while improvements in more remote areas have expanded the range of possibilities. The challenges that remain, particularly regarding service frequency in rural areas and the distances between bus stops and some trailheads, are real but not insurmountable for those prepared to plan carefully and accept some limitations on spontaneity. The overall picture is one of genuine progress, with the potential for additional enhancements if current trends continue and if the value of public transport access to walking routes continues to be recognised in transport planning and funding decisions.
Catching up with some books while gaining ideas for Irish outdoor excursions
7th February 2026 As last year came to an end, I perused a few books that may interest those seeking hiking inspiration for a trip to or around Ireland. In the last few years, a number of easy-to-read books have emerged. Given that there are few other ways of offline perusal of prospects following the demise of Walking World Ireland and stillborn start of Mountain World Ireland, these have their uses.
Keeping More Up to Date
First up are the Hike Life books from Rozanna Purcell. These are associated with a hiking community that embarks on day hikes around Ireland. The first was published in 2023 with the second following it in 2024. There is whole island coverage in both, featuring all of Ireland's provinces in each selection of fifty walks. Glossy photos abound, most of them featuring the author, it has to be said, so you get some sense of why routes get included. General introductions are followed by route overviews; any comments in the text around the need for decent maps and even guides give you an eye that the intentions are not to be comprehensive here. Complementing the hikes are suggestions for places to stay and dine along with places for swimming, not particularly an interest of mine.
The lifestyle bite size style of doing things also applies to Gill's Great Irish Walks and Hikes, which also covers the whole island of Ireland. This does not get an author's name on its front, yet it includes maps, a feature missing from the Hike Life books. A jarring glitch comes in the form of the Purple Mountain route getting a description more appropriate to that for Brandon Mountain, also featured in the same book. Nevertheless, it mostly deserves the praise lavished on it in a note on a bookshelf in the Cork store of Waterstones. Route descriptions comprise the bulk of the text, along with notes on history and other points of interest. Though lightweight in some ways, this is an out-and-out hiking book, unlike others that I mention in this piece.
From the same publisher, you also get The Great Irish Bucket List, which goes beyond the outdoors theme to include other places to go in Ireland. That leads me onto Wild Guide: West of Ireland, which is another tome that is worth a looking. This also goes beyond hiking to include other attractions (heritage, nature, dining and wild camping are among these), and Wild Things Publishing does not forget their wild swimming heritage either. Every county in the province of Connaught gains deserved coverage, much like Donegal, Clare, Limerick (often overlooked in guidebooks, to be honest), Kerry and Cork. You do not get large text in these, so you need sound eyesight to peruse the spots that are listed in this volume. Otherwise, it is one to dip into on an occasional basis, as the format does not lend itself to completion in one stretch of time.
Going Back in Time
While this set of musings has mentioned books that are more general than hiking in their outdoors outlook, there are some older ones with which I caught up after their being in my possession for too long. The first of these takes us back to the early 1990's: Great Walks: Ireland by David Herman, who left his job to embark on a career writing Irish hiking guidebooks. Later on, he became frustrated by the dependence on permissive land access and its associated uncertainties, but not before providing extensive coverage of Ireland through a range of books distributed by Shanksmare Publications, many of which I also had, at least for a while. The text for this one is what you would expect for a walking guidebook: detailed descriptions to show you the ways. Maps at this time were often poor, thus necessitating the additional detail. Thankfully, that has improved massively in the intervening decades.
Moving from Irish authorship to an English one, we come to Walking Ireland by Tom Lawton. This too is an older book that I have had for quite a while, and I have yet to finish it. Somehow, the text never grabbed me and other things took my attention instead. Various routes are assembled, often with the help of local guides, possibly essential when you are exploring somewhere from further away. It, too, is set in its own time, though maybe not as much as David Herman's book that I mentioned already. Details are included here too, making this less of something to consult quickly for an idea but more for planning an actual excursion.
Final Thoughts
If you want detailed route descriptions from more recently published books, I suggest that you check out what has been produced by The Collins Press (now an imprint of Gill) or The O' Brien Press, for there is much to use in those selections. Knife Outdoor Guidebooks offer some coverage for parts of Northern Ireland as well. There was a time when Cicerone offered two guidebooks for Irish hill and coastal walking, but alas these are out of print and became less current anyway.
To close, this post has conflated books containing different levels of detail and serving different interests. It also has gone back and forth in time, comparing the lighter tomes of the present with what remains from decades ago. All have their uses, especially when coming up with ideas for Irish outdoor excursions can be more challenging than it needs to be.
A major addition and a significant overhaul
6th February 2026 After what probably has been far too long, I have added a Cairngorm Mountains album to the photo gallery. The accumulation of photos from 2009, 2010, 2023 and 2024 was sufficiently large for this to be a gargantuan exercise. Picking out photos became challenging, particularly when emotions entered the fray and self-doubt further complicated decision-making. Once that was out of the way, the task became more manageable.
Then it was down to the addition of titles and descriptive text, a task that took more time because of work commitments. For a time, there were photos online with titles and no other text until I could get around to adding that. Thankfully, that is all complete now, so others can enjoy what is on there, which is the more important part.
All of this was in marked contrast to the pruning of the Lochaber gallery and the hiking ideas that threw up for me. Aside from any wish to improve on photographic quality, the Cairngorms do not have quite the same pull on me after all the traipsing in recent years. Nevertheless, there were a few ideas that popped into my head as I surveyed the map while identifying the locations of photos.
One thing that had not occurred to me was how far south Loch Eanaich was; there is not much difference between its latitude and that of Kingussie. That lead me to plot out a lengthy course from the latter back to Aviemore via Glen Feshie, Sgòr Gaoith, Sgòran Dubh Mor and Sgòran Dubh Beag. A decent level of fitness would be needed for such an escapade, as would a day with plenty of daylight. The west wall of Gleann Eanaich would take its toll, with the Munros and the northern descent after them posing significant challenges.
Another prospect that caught me eyes was that of reaching Loch A'an, which might be combined with an ascent of Cairn Gorm too. It is not just the height that matter in the Cairngorms but also the distance, hence the preference for longer hours of daylight, hopefully without the attendant heat that can accompany them during the high season of the Scottish year.
My not being to Braemar for more than fifteen years is itself a prompt for a return, as much as the images I made on a showery autumnal around nearby Morven. Longer ventures would take me into Glen Callater, though that is verging on embarking on a multi-day backpacking escapade, much like going from Blair Atholl to Braemar via Glen Tilt or going through the Lairig Ghru between the latter and Aviemore. Using the Lairig an Laoigh route between Glenmore and Braemar also brings its own temporal challenges that may or may not be as arduous as the others.
Keeping things more modest would keep one around Braemar in preference to those longer hikes. Here, Creag Choinnich and Carn nan Sgliat could offer rewards. If terrain, time, fitness, energy and strength were accommodating, then continuing to Creag nan Leachda and Millstone Carn could be ideas. There may be little need to venture any further.
Thus, without needing to peer at more than a map, hill wandering ideas can surface. Given the geographical scale of the area, it is best to keep one's ambitions in hand so as not to overdo things. After all, it is little wonder that some combine a mountain bike ride and a hill climb to fit things within the temporal confines of a day in these parts.
From canal paths to high ridges: Pondering possibilities for Lochaber returns
21st October 2025 The Lochaber and West Highland Way albums in the online photo gallery recently got updates (an overhaul in the case of the former) from trips to the former during April 2009, July 2013 and June 2024. However, this activity itself spurred some notions of returning to Lochaber because I fancy making digital replacements for what I pruned from the gallery. Naturally, it would have been better to have those newer images in place before culling their predecessors.
It was a previous round of curation that led me to traipse me along sections of the West Highland Way last year, one between Fort William and Kinlochleven followed by another from Glen Coe to Bridge of Orchy. Those journeys replaced images of lesser quality than what I prefer these days, efforts that were rewarded, which is just as well given the wearying heat experienced on the former and the wintry showers encountered on the latter. None of this took from the success of the endeavour, an aspect that dulled any wishes to return to the area for a time afterwards.
Returning to those unused excuses for returning, I am collating a few here for further perusal. These go beyond an ascent of the Pap of Glencoe from the village that gives it part of its name or even any continuation as far as Sgor nan Fiannaidh though that looks like a craggy proposition on OS maps even if Harvey Maps show a path up there. Proceeding any closer to the Aonach Eagach is of no interest to me, given its intensity of exposure and the scrambling involved; this also might be going in the wrong direction too.
Otherwise, Glenfinnan may have its monument commemorating the Jacobite Rising at the head of Loch Shiel as well as its cinematic associations because of a famous viaduct, and short paths that lead to classic viewpoints of both landmarks, while longer circuits climb into the surrounding hills and a track up the glen reaches the Corryhully bothy. Bringing us more on topic, Kinlochleven turns up a lot here because of what lies on its doorstep, which is far more than the well visited Grey Mare's Tail waterfall or even the well trodden West Highland Way, which threads past some of what is described below.
Matters of Unfinished Business
Glen Nevis
An encounter with Glen Nevis was among my earliest incursions into the Scottish Highlands. That was a serendipitous affair that included a trot along a very short section of the mountain track leading to the top of none other than Ben Nevis. It granted me ample views of what lay about me after some forest track trampling in advance of an intrusion that met no reproach from others who were better equipped for their hiking. Apart from the possibility of reaching Scotland's country top, other traipsing through the glen on the West Highland Way has left me sated for now.
However, that still leaves other parts much further into the glen. After all, my second visit took me all the way to the car park at the end of the tarmac road on a stroll with my brother. While a dull day might have limited photography, that was not the point at the time. It was only a few years later that I went past the sign asking about visitor preparedness to reach wilder parts on a day laced with heavy rain. Before that, I had loitered around Achriabhach on a wonderful August evening on a circuit that followed forestry tracks from Fort William before sticking with tarmac for the way back. Then, gaining height on the path shadowing Allt Coire a' Mhusgain granted me a vantage point from which to savour my surroundings at a time when directional sunlight cast many shadows.
Surprisingly, there has been no follow up on those incursions for a good while since they were made. It is not before time that this should be something that is set to rights, though the vicissitudes of Lochaber's weather and the numbers drawn by the delights that await them mean that the errand is challenging. Overcoming those will bring rewards, though.
Great Glen Way
Around midsummer this year, I pottered along the Great Glen Way between Drumnadrochit and Inverness. The start was under cloudy skies without much hope of seeing sunshine, yet there were breaks in the cloud cover later and a fine end to the day. For a long time, my dalliance with the trail was at the other end: between Clunes of the western bank of Loch Lochy, Gairlochy, Banavie and Fort William.
The sprawling rambles started from Spean Bridge and passed the impressively situated Commando Memorial. Their reach included the shores of Loch Arkaig as much as Loch Lochy, with Achnacarry and the Mìle Dorcha as landmarks on my traipsing. Along the way, I surveyed sightings of the Grey Corries as much as the more dramatic side of Ben Nevis and its neighbouring hills. Since all got captured on film, I would fancy returning to make digital images of these alluring panoramas too.
An added sense of adventure could send one's mind to ponder the heights of Meall na Teanga and Sron a' Choire Ghairbh, often suggested as a joint ascent in guidebooks. My first reaction to such an idea was that the realities of carless hiking make this implausible, until I got around to looking at timetables. An early start could make this happen with a spot of care, and Laggan sounds a better starting point than significantly more distant Fort William. However, routing by Mìle Dorcha could increase transport options with a diversion to Spean Bridge.
The stretching of logistical realities sent another flight of fancy into my mind: walking from Laggan to Fort William using the Great Glen Way. This is no quick stroll at 36 kilometres (22.5 miles), though it can be managed in a single day given adequate hours of daylight. The aforementioned section between Drumnadrochit and Inverness was around 32 km (20 miles), after all. If required, a 5 km (3 mile) diversion to Spean Bridge would shorten the distance with access to bus and rail services. However, the section beyond Gairlochy would add digital photos for me when the weather is offering, so the full distance still appeals and seeing those aforementioned hillwalking summits would do no harm either.
Loch Treig, Lairig Leacach & Glen Spean
It was May 2006 when I walked from Corrour station to Spean Bridge after overnight travel got me to Fort William, an escapade that inspired one of the first trip reports on here at a time when brevity was more my style. The sunlit landscapes, still brown after the winter and awaiting greening for the summer, caught my eye as much as Loch Treig itself and any remaining snow on the surrounding hilltops. Though the start may have been later than was ideal, I was still in ample time for a train back to Fort William, and I seem to remember that there were later bus services available in those friendlier times too.
While I might have had a digital camera with me then, film photography was my mainstay at the time and later fumbling meant that I lost the photos anyway. Thus, going that way again is something that appeals to me should such an opportunity arise. Lairig Leacach and the Grey Corries would again have my ephemeral company, though there are other route options in the area that may appeal just as well.
The descent to Spean Bridge had me skirting Leanachan Forest, which offers possibilities such as the 9.8 kilometres Leanachan and River Lundy circular, offering a sheltered outing when weather conditions make higher routes inadvisable. However, the mixture of walkers and mountain bikers does mean that you need to pay more attention at junctions, without being distracted by views of Ben Nevis through the trees.
Adjoining that is Torlundy and the Nevis Range gondola that lifts walkers to opportunities that would otherwise require long approaches. From the Top Station, well-made paths lead to the nearby Sgùrr Finnisg-aig and Meall Beag viewpoints, as well as a more challenging 9.5 kilometre route to Aonach Beag and Aonach Mòr for those possessing the required stamina and navigational skills. In contrast, the Snowgoose Trail turns the approach on its head, climbing for 6 kilometres from the car park to the mid-station restaurant, with the gondola available either up or down to ease the effort.
Staring from Kinlochleven offers another possibilities, with some of these passing Loch Eilde Mor, another location visited a good while ago and with remaining digital photos too, some of which now being in the Lochaber album to which I alluded earlier. One is a circuit that also takes in the 13 kilometres long Blackwater Reservoir and its one kilometre wide dam, an intriguing prospect that frequents quiet countryside with views towards the Pap of Glencoe.
Another trail links with the track between Corrour station and Loch Treig from where there can be a reprise of the hike to Spean Bridge made in 2006, while continuing past Loch Eilde Beag to meet the Abhainn Rath could be another option. Heading north from there towards Lairig Leacach means a potentially tricky river crossing, even if it could make use of the pair of Crocs that I acquired after a similar necessity in Gleann Eanaich during May of last year. While the map may show a ford, the width of the river remains concerning, espcially when weather conditions mean a spate is in full flow.
Otherwise, a more committing possibility might be to continue west to Glen Nevis, an idea with which I have toyed in the past, albeit with a start at Corrour station after arriving there on a northbound Caledonian Sleeper train. The economics of that mode of arrival are not so favourable these days, and securing a booking is challenging enough, possibly because of overtourism. With a sufficiently early start, the Kinlochleven start might be a more feasible option.
A Spectrum of Underused Prospects
Ardgour
It was December 2009 when I made my only crossing of the Corran Narrows to savour what lies on the other side of Loch Linnhe. Leaden clouds packed the sky to ensure a dark and sunless encounter. Nevertheless, seeing these parts on a brighter day remains an unused prospect. Once you get there, the council-commissioned Corran Ferry gets you to the other side in minutes to reach perhaps deserted hills and more remote walking to boot.
The Druim na Sgriodain loop is one of the more convenient possibilities in an area more amenable to backpacking than day hikes, especially given the sparse bus timetable that is prioritised for locals more than visitors. Returning to the route, it is one that includes 12.2 kilometres of walking with 795 metres of ascent, an undertaking that would engage you for much of a day with its challenging terrain. After that, there is Garbh Bheinn, at 885 metres, often compared to a Munro and demanding of the kind of respect, making it one for dry, settled weather when visibility remains good.
This is an area for those seeking solitude and remoteness, especially when you venture into neighbouring Morvern and Sunart. As with much of the Scottish Highlands, it helps to have calm conditions along with a sense of self-sufficiency. While my incursions may be limited, I retain hopes of witnessing panoramas that sprawl over water and hill, gifts of clear sunlit days.
Ben Nevis
For someone with a fascination with a fascination with hill country and a long history of frequenting Fort William, it may come as a surprise to you to hear that I never visited the 1,345-metre high top of Ben Nevis. All that I have is a little taste of the Mountain Track from my first-ever foray into Glen Nevis. Advancing awareness of how ill-equipped I was for the full venture throttled any uprisings of ambition, assuming there ever were any, which exceeds any sense of reality.
My brother was wondering about reaching the summit when we went this way on our round trip of Scotland. The answer that seven or eight hours (allowing oneself nine might be no bad idea) were needed was sufficient for dulling any ambitions. Parking up a car at the youth hostel would have gained us a starting point for a 14.2 kilometre out and back hike if we were so equipped. If we had known, a partial climb might have been in order: after all, following the Mountain Trail to Halfway Lochan offers a 7.7 kilometre return route to a fine viewpoint at around 610 metres, one that offers views over Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe.
While the Mountain track might be my choice if I get to make an ascent, there are other possibilities for more experienced walkers, and the Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête is a celebrated adventurous option. This 17.9 kilometre ridge route from the North Face car park is exposed and steep, involving scrambling and pathless sections that require assured footing and good judgement, particularly if cloud presses low over the massif. Thus, this is no place for novices.
Returning to the subject of partial ascents, the North Face approach to the CIC Hut is another fine outing in its own right. This 11.1 kilometre return route climbs steadily beside the Allt a' Mhuilinn to reach the memorial hut beneath Ben Nevis's towering cliffs. Nevertheless, you can continue to the summit from here, stretching your hiking distance to around 25.6 kilometres on a challenge that can take 11 or 12 hours with some backtracking as you round the mountain to reach the upper section of the Mountain Track.
Continuing the theme of combining the Mountain Track and the North Face Path, I spied another option on the map that gains views along its length, if not the top of Scotland's highest hill. This opens up going from Torlundy to Fort William via the CIC Hut, a 17.5-kilometre route that opens with a sustained climb. As a means of getting to know the terrain, this has its appeal and opens up possibilities for reconnaissance before committing to any sort of summit attempt, as grandiose as that makes things sound.
The Mamores
Continuing on the mountaineering thread brings me to things that are flights of fancy to someone who normally summits on a single hill (maybe two at times) in one day, rather than doing a round of them. There are some of those with renown to be found among the Mamores. This is the kind of hill country where safety needs added care. For example, the north-eastern ridge of Sgùrr a' Mhàim should never be used for descent, as it has been associated with fatalities. After all, you are covering the kind of ground that needs added experience, a head for heights, proper equipment and the ability to navigate in poor visibility.
One is the 15.9 kilometre Ring of Steall, linking four summits in a committing loop, and the 13.4 kilometre Stob Bàn and Mullach nan Coirean round. Both are technical and strenuous with ridge walking, scrambling, traversal of narrow arêtes and steep descents. Both are dwarfed by the 39.8 kilometre Mamores Tour that takes in the summits of Mullach nan Coirean, Sgùrr a' Mhàim, Am Bodach, An Gearanach, Na Gruagaichean, Binnein Mòr and others, and the descent from Binnein Beag that requires great care.
Glen Nevis acts as an access point for much of this, as does Kinlochleven, from which stalker's paths will convey you to the likes of Sgurr Eilde Mor, Binnein Mor, Sgor nam Fiannaidh and Am Bodach. While reaching those heights on more modest incursions appears tempting, the potential of these making for challenging mountain days provides pause for thought.
