Category: Europe
Making a planned escape in the midst of a time of turmoil
14th March 2017 In a lot of ways, 2005 was an eventful year. My mother's health was poor for much of it and several weeks with a vomiting complaint resulting in her having to go to hospital, a move that she resisted. We could have done without the clueless inexperience of the consultant that had here in his care. It all meant that an Easter visit to Ireland proved inevitable. During the summer, the poor woman suffered an episode of shingles if life was not hard enough as it was.
In the world at large, there was a general election in Britain where the government got itself re-elected with a reduced majority. Times were changing and July brought two terrorist attacks in London, one horrifically successful and the other resulting in failure. Neither did anything to steady nerves and I resolved to keep away from London for a time; it was to be a few years before I made any return visit.
Not a Good Time to be Going Away
With all this happening, my by now customary week long summer break was in order. The timing was not nearly as bad as my brother's trip to London with a friend of his. An abortive terrorist attack happened on 22/7 while he was staying in the city and I was to travel to Scotland the very next day. Paternal nerves needed steadying after I sensed that I might have said too much about London events so I got my brother to make contact with Ireland. London turned out to be big enough that he saw very little of anything that happened.
As I travelled north, there was heightened awareness as I topped up on a few things at a WHSmith's branch in Manchester Piccadilly train station. Otherwise, the security situation does remain so much in my memory these days. My journey was to take me to Edinburgh where I would spend the weekend with a friend before continuing to Skye.
Any recollection of how the weekend was spent has faded as much as that of the journey from Edinburgh to Broadford on the Isle of Skye. Shortly after arriving, my brother phoned to see where I was because our mother had shingles. Both of us were away from our normal bases so our father had to be supported in another way, possibly with help from an aunt and uncle. While the security situation felt very far away, life's tribulations displayed their ability to follow you. Still, I got out for a stroll along Broadford Bay and found my way to somewhere where I could get something to eat.
2005-07-27
Next morning, I caught the bus to Elgol. Then, services were not as regular as they are today and that influenced my choice of walk. It is a scenic spot with coastal views of the Cuillin hills. There were to be plenty of those as I followed the path north along by Loch Scavaig.
As this took me along the steep side of Ben Cleat, my mind was focussed by the possibility of slipping into the see if I was to lose my foothold. It reminded me of walk along Offa's Dyke Path by the side of Eglwyseg Mountain only a few weeks earlier. Tripping there would not have dropped me into the sea though.
Reaching Glen Scaladal brought with it a sense of relief though the amount flotsam and jetsam from the sea made for a surprising sight. Next up were the slopes of Beinn Leacach but they were not as intimidating as those along Ben Cleat had been. Camasunary was reached without incident.
From this point, many continue towards Loch Coruisk by way of The Bad Step near Sgurr na Stri. That way would take you into the heart of the Cuillin but I was not so adventurous. My choice took me towards Loch na Crèitheach and Glen Sligachan before I would finish my walk at Sligachan itself. This would continue the scenic grandeur to which I had been exposed.
The sun was set to shine for most of the way too. Thus, I would get to see a whole range of delights like Blàbheinn and Marsco at their best. This was a small helping of wilderness walking with encumbrance from scarcely a soul, exactly what I needed after all that had happened that year. Waterways like the River Sligachan and lochs like Loch an Athain or Lochan Dubha would be watery companions for parts of the hike. Map inspection was as much for working out what surrounded or what other walking possibilities there might be as much as it was for progress assessment.
The famous south-facing view from Sligachan was not a photographic possibility as I awaited the next bus to Broadford. Taking some refreshment at the Sligachan Hotel tempted too but I decided to play safe though buses were not so irregular here. This is a place to which I probably need to return.
2005-07-28
After the enjoyment of the previous day, I was off again and the destination this time was the Trotternish. With a stopover in Portree, I went from Broadford to Brogaig. It was on the second leg of the journey that I saw that newspaper delivery to Staffin was done by bus. Once I had disembarked, I was on the minor road across the ancient landslip that so dominates sights on this part of Skye.
Though the curiosities of the Quirang lay to my right, I chose instead to turn left and stroll south along the inland cliff top. Quite why I had overlooked an out and back stroll in the other direction is a little lost to me now but it might have been because the day was dull at this point. Leaving the making of photos of rock formations like The Table, The Prison and The Needle for a sunnier day does have a ring of sense about it.
My course was to carry me over humps and bumps as far as Beinn Edra. For whatever reason, the stroll felt a long one. Whether it was because the day before had spoilt me with its delights or the ground underfoot was less compatible with rapid progress is not something that I can answer readily. Either way, I dropped into Glen Conon on the way to Uig under breaking cloud cover.
The sun was out by the time that I reached Uig and, with time to spend before the next bus to Portree, I found my way to a shady glade at the foot of Glen Uig where I rested a while. It was to be August 2008 when I would be here next and that would be when I made my first, and so far only, trip to Harris. Explorations were set to continue.
The way back to Broadford cannot have been eventful for I have little recollection of it now. After my last evening in Broadford, it was time to start heading south again. That must have been a journey without much ardour too for next to no detail remains in memory. That autumn, I was set to embark on a career move so the changes were set to continue.
None of the changes in 2005 were anything as dramatic as those in 2016. My life was set to continue in a readily steady direction with one thing leading to another. Good memories remain and yet may call me back to those places where they were first made.
Travel Arrangements
Train from Macclesfield to Edinburgh. Scottish Citylink coach journey from Edinburgh to Broadford with a change of coach in Fort William. Highland Country bus services from Broadford to Elgol, Sligachan to Broadford, Broadford to Portree, Portree to Brogaig, Uig to Portree and Portree to Broadford. Scottish Citylink coach journey from Broadford to Glasgow with a change of coach in Fort William. Train from Glasgow to Macclesfield.
Learning many lessons during an introduction to Skye
8th March 2017 It was July 1999 when I had my first experience of multi-day solo travel. Before that, there were day trips that took me to Fort William, Inverness, Oban and Loch Lomond. There were other excursions too, with regular university science meetings taking me to the shores of Loch Tay and a conference in Aberdeen. All laid the foundations for a trip undertaken with my brother and that took in Fort William, Glen Nevis, Oban, the Isle of Mull and Loch Lomond before he went home via Stranraer. That allowed me a chance for a weekend in Ireland too.
That first multi-day trip of my own took me to Skye for the first time. It came after the oral exam for my Ph.D. so there was an element of celebration after a successful outcome. That July had been dull in the main so it was a change to have a sunny day for the exam, though it clouded over by evening time.
The prospect of some more sunshine later in the week was such that I managed to plan the trip away. This was a largely spontaneous escapade that commenced after a late night going through the phone bill for the flat to work out how much each of us had to pay. My pay as you go dial-up internet usage made the task more laborious, but the job got done regardless of this.
Any lack of sleep made for a more bleary-eyed journey to Edinburgh's St. Andrew's Bus Station to catch a Scottish Citylink coach to Fort William. This was to be my second time going that way and the sunshine ensured that I was looking out the window at the passing scenery instead of catching up on any sleep. After all, both Rannoch Moor and Glen Coe are captivating places for anyone's attention.
After a break, it was time to catch another Scottish Citylink coach to get the rest of the way to Portree. This was to show me new scenic delights as it passed the Commando Memorial, Glen Cluanie, Eilean Donan Castle, the Skye bridge and the Red Hills (some call these the Red Cuillin while others disagree) of the island itself.
Once in Portree, it was time to seek out a bed for the night. Nowadays, I do this ahead of time but I took a chance and tried the Portree Independent Hostel and was in luck. The naivety of the act now astounds me and I later started going to a tourist office if I arrived anywhere without a pre-booking. Even that is out of my favour now.
With accommodation sorted, I pottered about the place in the evening sunshine. There was time to get something to eat too and I found somewhere simple that did what I needed. Otherwise, there was no wastage of the weather and lack of prior research meant that I got to see as far as the Cuillin without realising what I was seeing. The lack of a detailed map could be blamed and so could a certain gap in experience but I think it also was a certain scepticism.
After rising and getting breakfast the next morning, I found a place where I could hire out a bike for the day. Duly equipped and with my few belongings in a bag on the back, I set off to cross the island. Doing so, I followed the main road to Uig and turned to continue to Dunvegan. Lots of little places like Edinbane were passed and Macleod's Tables were there to be seen in the heat-haze too.
Once in Dunvegan, I headed to the castle and gardens with the sort of sunburn that I avoid these days. It was a hot sunny day so a rest under the shelter of trees and shrubs was in order. For the entry, I seem to have stuck with the gardens because I did not enter the castle itself. Instead, I found a quiet place by the sea with a view of the building where I lingered a little while.
All the while, I was making photos using my compact camera and realised that my film supply was low. Since there was no shop around Dunvegan that sold any, rationing was the only option. When I left Dunvegan, I decided to return to Portree by a different way for a spot of variety. The was evening glorious as I plied the west coast of the island and the Cuillin lay ahead of me too since the road I was travelling led to Sligachan. However, I crossed to Portree on a minor road that I joined after Struan.
Initially, it was a scary affair with a drop at one side that was as steep as the initial ascent. Sharp ups and downs awaited as I continued my crossing. If there was any regret, it was that my film supply was by now exhausted. This was before I had any sense of how much film you would need on a day away from home. Even so, that was forgotten when I found another hostel where I could stay for the night. Again, I took a chance and it worked out for the best.
The bike was stored and food sought before I made for bed in a more amenable spot than where I was the night before. Once I sorted myself the next morning and handed back the bike after the agreed 24 hours, it was time to head for home.
Given the fame of Eilean Donan Castle, there was to be a stop at Dornie. However, I did not realise that I needed to tell the driver of my plans so we had a job to found my bag under all the luggage of Glasgow-bound passengers. He hardly was impressed but we got it sorted. It was yet another lesson for the future.
Eilean Donan looked well and I did go inside to see this castle. Film supplies had been replenished before leaving Portree and it might have been then that sunscreen and after-sun soother were acquired for I did need these. There was plenty of use of the newly acquired items as I pottered about the castle and what lay around it in the time available before the next coach came.
Not much can be recalled of the journey back to Edinburgh, but there must have been changes of coach at Fort William and Glasgow. After the trip, there were photos to get developed and some have yet to be bettered. Nowadays, getting all this for around £100 could appear an unbelievable bargain but it left my financial reserves in need of parental replenishment. Quite what my father really thought of this is unknown to me but it was good to get away for a while and set in motion a series of explorations of Scotland that has continued since then.
A mixture of good sense and a spot of recklessness
7th March 2017 While I was thinking of keeping the stories of these two walks from June 2005 apart, I changed my mind, and they now appear together, not only because they happened on the same weekend but also to illustrate that human nature does not always follow a trend of constant improvement.
The excursion came to pass at short notice, given the possibility of some good weather. Oban's tourist office sorted out my accommodation and I got to stay in the same place for three nights, something that never is a foregone conclusion for short notice bookings during the summer season. Recollections of how I got to Oban have been diminished by the passage of time, but those of what else I did while there remain far more vividly.
2005-06-11: When Good Sense Prevailed
In contrast to what I did on my last visit in 2014, my first visit in 1999 or my second in 2001, this was a more extensive stroll during the longest stretch of a day that I ever spent on Mull. The day started with a sunlit ferry crossing from Oban to Craignure. Once a bus got me from there to Salen, I could begin my walk.
What I had decided to do was to cross the island to the west coast at its narrowest point. That meant a road walk along the B8035 in the growing heat of the day. After a left turn at a crossroads, I was to pass Gruline where Lachlann MacQuarrie's mausoleum is to be found.
My sights were on something more natural, so I continued on my way. Near Knock Farm, I was to pick up a vehicle track that would lead me along the shores of Loch Bà. Cattle were loitering along the shoreline as I passed them. This was before where the vehicle track I was following was to split in two. All about me looked empty and wild.
One continues further along the shoreline before becoming a path at Gortenbuie. The path then continues towards Glen More by following Abhainn a Ghorten Bhuidhe uphill, crossing a bealach between Corra-bheinn and Bheinn à Mheadhain and going down into the aforementioned glen. The other track leaves the loch shore earlier and also becomes a path as it enters Glen Clachaig. It, too, gains height as it follows the River Clachaig before scaling the rest of the way to get to Carn Cul Righ Albainn. There then are two choices for the coming descent: a direct path into Glen More or a more gradual one leading towards Loch Beg.
All the above has been picked out from OS 1:25000 mapping. However, how things appear on the ground is a different matter. After all, the appearance of a tempting dotted line does not mean that there is an obvious line of a path there for you to follow. In these cases, you make your way using your own navigation skills with little regard for following anyone else's line, and having a peek on Google Earth beforehand could forewarn you if that is what you want. Sometimes, there is a something about having a certain element of surprise ahead of you.
What brought the lack of an obvious path to mind was my choice on that day in June 2005. Since going that way might bring a chance of seeing Ben More, the island's only Munro and its highest point, I chose the track leading to Glen Clachaig, and it looked promising for much of the way. Eventually, though, the leading line petered out, and I was left to my own devices. My decision then was to proceed as far into the glen as time allowed before turning back. It was when I got to glimpse something more lofty, that was when I began to retrace my steps.
The way back to Salen largely followed the same route. The only deviation was a call to see the MacQuarrie Mausoleum, maintained by the National Trust for Scotland on behalf of the National Trust for Australia, where Lachlann MacQuarrie had been a governor. That led me under tree cover, a respite from the summer afternoon heat. After that, I returned to the B8035 where a passing motorist offered me a drive, but I was intent on sticking with walking in the peace and quiet.
The stillness remains in my mind even now. Even with the supposed popularity of Ben More, I scarcely encountered another soul. Once the rush of ferry arrivals and departures has passed, everyone scatters to leave Mull in an unperturbed state. It is that which draws me to Scotland again and again, for we all need to leave the buzz of modern life after us for a while.
After a wait, the last bus of the day to Craignure facilitated my catching the last ferry of the day to Oban without any glitch. The evening was glorious, and the lighthouse at the southern end of Lismore scarcely looked any better. The day had been good.
2005-06-12: A More Reckless Exploit
Even now, the first train of the day from Oban to Glasgow departs around midday. That means that any walking trips elsewhere in Lorn need to be shorter, if a return by train is to be executed. In hindsight, it ought to have been a day for Beinn Lora since that is not far from Connel. A bus trip to Benderloch and back would have been a possibility that would have made that work. In fact, it would have helped for a Sunday evening phone call to Ireland that would have saved facing one with a grumpy and uptight father the next day. That difficulty thankfully passed quickly enough, and I vowed never to phone the folks on the same day of the week ever again; if only I had hopped to avoiding the Sunday night habit before then.
All that lay in the future as I left Lochawe train station to head along the A85 before turning onto the B8055 that itself would be left for a track leading into Glen Strae. Unlike the previous day, the weather was showery and soggy underfoot conditions were unavoidable. My encounter with those really started when I left the track to gain height on the way to Lairig Dhoireann. The track would have been a dead-end affair anyway since it finishes near the head of the glen.
Though only around three to four kilometres in distance, the way up to Lairig Dhoireann was slow-going. The ascent was steep, and progress over damp ground in showery weather hardly was going to be rapid. Even with a 13:00 start from Lochawe station, it was around 17:00 when I finally reached the bealach. Because I had not stopped earlier, that placed me in something of a quandary since there was now no guarantee that I would get back to Lochawe station in time for the last train to Oban.
Faced with improving weather and beguiling scenery, I made the fateful decision to go down to the floor of Glen Kinglass before continuing to the shore of Loch Etive at Inverkinglass and follow a familiar route to Taynuilt. The descent alongside of Allt Dhoireann took longer than I would have hoped due to the roughness of the ground. It did not help that I also had missed the landscape too when I was at the top because what I saw straight ahead of me was the hill beside which I would be going downhill. Even so, the exploit proved that there was some wisdom in my choice, and gradients eased beyond Coire Dhoireann.
Sticking with Allt Dhoireann most of the way down allowed me to shadow the line of the path that I otherwise would have been following if I had made the turn at a greater height. Impatience when trying to seek out a useful footbridge led me to do my own barefoot crossing, and the water was well cold even on an evening in June. Taking off my socks and leaving on my boots would have worked better, and I was to wet my socks anyway. That this wetting resulted in my feet getting blistered, but that outcome was one to be overlooked in light of my situation.
There was some reassurance in reaching a solid vehicle track, though it was to take its toll on my wet feet. Everywhere about me looked resplendent in the evening sunshine, and I often stopped for photography whenever the resident midges allowed me. The way to Loch Etive took until around 20:00, so there no longer was any question of catching a train or coach back to Oban. The Taynuilt Hotel was now my objective.
My location and my predicament put a stop to my phoning Ireland, so I set off as well as I could. There might have been an offer of a lift at Inverkinglass, but do you really want to be burdening complete strangers like that? At least, that was my thinking. With Ben Cruachan looming ahead of me and showing itself better than I ever had seen it, I continued my countdown of known landmarks to reassure myself. There were occasional photographic breaks too, though my mind was focussed on other things.
Inverliver was passed and someone else asked me if I was OK at Glennoe. This time, there was an extra confirmation needed, but I kept going. Declining light was a concern now, but the time of year kept things going for longer. Inverawe House was passed and the River Awe crossed to shorten the distance into Taynuilt even more. The hotel was reached at 10:50 and a taxi summoned from Connel. That meant a forty-five-minute wait, but that passed too. Before too long, I was back in Oban despite a suspected deer encounter. The next morning was to see me collect my things for departure, and the evening repaired Irish family relations. It had been a lesson-ridden few days.
Travel Arrangements
Return train journey between Macclesfield and Oban. Return ferry trip between Oban and Mull with return bus journey from Craignure to Salen, all on Saturday. Train journey from Oban to Loch Awe, followed by taxi from Taynuilt to Oban on Sunday.
A first encounter with Kerrera and Loch Etive
3rd March 2017 While writing a recent missive recalling a weekend spent around Oban in August 2014, I got to think that some retrospective postings on even earlier trips might be in order while details can be recalled from my memory. The last few years have been testing and such stress and strain is sure to affect what gets embedded in one's memory. Also, life is such that some memories overwrite others. Since I do not keep a diary, writing things down on here is a way of preserving things for my own personal posterity if nothing else. It would be a bonus if others enjoyed reading them too.
With the above in mind, I started to mull over what could be added from the time before this blog existed. Various tours around Scotland from the early years of this century (even now that that feels strange to read back to myself but so much is changing at the moment) came to mind. There also is a June 2005 trip to Lorn and Mull that could be related, and this entry takes us back to November 2002 when I spent a grey weekend around Oban that took in both Kerrera and Loch Etive.
The weekend was pre-planned and I was asked to come along with four or five others. When I got to survey the weather forecast in the days prior to our escapade, I was prompted to ask if we still were proceeding with the trip. In normal circumstances, any sighting prospect of a storm would have me staying at home. In this case, other minds were made up so we were going, come what may.
2002-11-01
Having got as far as Edinburgh the day before, there was an early start to get to Oban by train. This was my first introduction to that part of the West Highland railway and it was not showing at its best. Rail had closed in any views and it was to take until the August 2003 before I saw the surrounding scenery at anything approaching its best.
When we reached Oban, we made for Jeremy Inglis Hostel in the town centre where we left most of our belongings. This was to be our base for the next three nights and we left it to explore Kerrera on our first afternoon. We walked from Oban to the ferry crossing point near Gallanach. Once there, we needed to turn a board around, so its white side was showing to summon the ferry because the ferryman lived on the island. In the summer, such action is not needed as I found on my return in 2008.
The boat soon came to pick us up and we got across the Sound of Kerrera without any drama. Once there, we largely had the place to ourselves apart from year round residents and a few folk marking out a hill running course. After crossing the island, we followed a track toward the island's southern point. Views towards Mull were limited by the weather though it remained largely dry. The walk was pleasant and we got as far as the ruins of Gylen Castle before we began to shadow the Sound of Kerrera. There was a café stop too so we were not that hurried. It did nothing to stop us reaching the ferry crossing point again.
The weather failed when we reached the mainland again and one of the biggest soakings of my life was set in train as we returned to Oban. No one escaped and even the sailing gear worn by one of our number was not enough to ward off the onslaught. The group that reached the hostel need the services of a drying room but I cannot there being one and we improvised anyway. Still, it did not stop us enjoying a meal at a nearby restaurant that night.
2002-11-02
After the previous day's soaking, it was a relief to enjoy a dry if persistently grey day. Again, there was an early start since we were after the first train departure of the day from Oban. The selected route was one of my own devising and did nothing overly dramatic at the request of other members of the group. They seemed to reckon that my developing hill wandering habit might involve many steep-sided and high hills, an overestimation if ever there was one.
When we got to Taynuilt, we pottered on towards its Roman Catholic church before going along a lane that passed Bonawe Ironworks, an Historic Scotland site. We continued towards the train line only to pick up a path leading to Inverawe House. That was my first encounter with a scary bridge over the River Awe and we dawdled about the smokery before joining the road for a little while.
Then, we got on to a forestry track that was to lead us to the shore of Loch Etive and it would have done so more directly if a misunderstanding had not caused me to lead us in the wrong direction for a while. The clue was in the fact that we were going uphill, so there was nothing for it but to turn back and correct our course. That someone had a grumpy knee made the choice more inevitable.
Once on the correct track, we set off as far as Glennoe before we decided to turn back after stalling for a while. What stunned us was the speed at which our man with the dodgy knee was travelling. It seemed as if the joint had only two speeds, stopped and fast walking pace. It all meant that we were back in Taynuilt with time to spare. A visit to a café resulted, and the train was not missed. That night, we enjoyed a wonderful meal at The Gathering restaurant before retiring to bed for the night.
2002-11-03
The next morning started well so I was lured out of the hostel to make a few photos in the sunshine. Seeing Kerrera in the winter sunshine was a compensation for the previous few days and I pottered up to MacCaig's Tower too before I returned to take some breakfast. Though others had designs on hiring bikes for an afternoon cycle, I needed to leave around midday to start my journey south. Before that, there was more time for strolling around by the Corran Esplanade before we stopped for tea at either the Oban Bay Hotel or The Lancaster Hotel. My recollection of how the entrance looked makes it more likely to have been the latter but I cannot be sure.
From there, I left to catch a coach to Glasgow. All the while, the weather had been changing for the worse and it was to be a gloomy afternoon in Oban. With only one train departure that day, the others had to wait until around 18:00 and they found the time long. With November being in the low season in Scotland, there was no place to hire a bike that Sunday anyway and it was just as well with the weather that arrived.
The places that I had seen were to lure me back time and again. Now, I wonder if a longer stay is in order. July 2003 saw a visit to Scotland that was divided between Oban and Fort William. Only for well-founded doubts about the weather and the vagaries of arranging accommodation, I should have stayed in Oban for the whole trip. Now, I can see that another visit to Kerrera is in order and travelling to Cuan or Ellenabeich would allow for respective ferry crossings to Seil, Luing or Easedale. Sometimes, looking back can take you forward.
Travel Arrangements
Train journey from Macclesfield to Edinburgh on Thursday. Train journey from Edinburgh to Oban with a change at Glasgow Queen Street on Friday morning. Local passenger ferry to and from Kerrera on Friday afternoon. Return train journey between Oban and Taynuilt on Saturday. Scottish Citylink service 976 from Oban to Glasgow followed by train journey from Glasgow to Macclesfield on Sunday. (It was the year of Operation Princess when Virgin introduced its Voyager trains and they got overfilled at the outset because they were too small for how we all used them. On this journey, there was need to leave one for another at Stockport because of how full it got and I met a work colleague in a vestibule of the second Voyager and that ironically had started from Edinburgh. Those teething troubles are just a memory now.)
A weekend for revisiting old haunts
1st March 2017 Since I came over to Britain from Ireland, Oban has seen me a good times. Many of these have been recounted in a posting on here dating from 2008. There was to be another during July 2011, but work meant that it had to be abandoned and I ended up dividing what was left of the weekend between Northumberland and the Scottish Borders instead. So, the return that came to pass around the Summer Bank Holiday weekend in August 2014 was not before time.
My choice of extending a bank holiday weekend to ensure a getaway happened more than once in 2016 and the reasons for doing so in 2014 were little different. Then, my father was still with us, so my limited allocation of annual leave needed careful management so I got over to Ireland often enough. In 2016, it was the work pertaining to the deceased man's estate that needed oversight, so the restrictions were similar.
Often, bank holiday weekend weather can be a let-down though it can come good too. In 2003, a trip to Lochaber over the equivalent weekend made up for the disappointing week split between there and Lorn at the end of the preceding July. A hike along the West Highland Way between Kinlochleven and Fort William was enjoyed in stunning weather and the following day saw one between Spean Bridge and Fort William via the Commando Memorial, Gairlochy, Loch Arkaig, the Caledonian Canal and Banavie. The one in 2007 saw me walk along the Rob Roy Way between Drymen and Callander with an overnight stop in Aberfoyle. Then, I based myself in Aberdeen for the one in 2010 and got the most from uneven weather with even a visit to Braemar included.
The trip to Lorn took place with even more mixed weather in the forecasts. Even so, the need for a getaway must have trumped any concerns about experiencing a washout. The portents were not good with there being a heavy rain shower in Glasgow and similar bursts of the same further north. Still, Oban was rain-free when I arrived, so the walk from the train station to the hotel where I was staying was a dry one.
2014-08-30
It might seem very odd to some but it is often when I go somewhere that I start planning what I am going to do there. The cause this time was the variability in the predicted weather situation. Figuring which from Saturday or Sunday was the better day to go for a longer hike proved challenging. According to forecasts, Saturday was to be better, but Sunday offered more. Such is the trouble with the changeability of our maritime weather that one thing can be expected while another comes to pass in reality. It reminds me of a summertime bank holiday weekend in Ireland when everyone was teased with the prospect of a sunny few days only for a stormy deluge to arrive. Even with modern weather system modelling, conditions continue to turn out differently from what we thought they were going to be.
Coming to the conclusion that it was Saturday that was to offer more dry weather, I was tempted to try doing too much. Thoughts of a short walk to the top of Beinn Lora proved a tempting prelude to a later out and back walk along the shore of Loch Etive. Though sorely tempted, better sense prevailed and I stuck with the Loch Etive stroll. Having to cut down ambitions due to time limitations became a familiar refrain in 2016 too because adding an extra day to my Austrian and Norwegian trips would have allowed for so much additional satisfaction.
As it happened, the day in question got a damp start so it was just as well that I had curtailed my plans. It was raining well while I awaited boarding time for the train that would carry me to Taynuilt. This was to be a busy departure and it was easy to think that this was the end of the summer season in Scotland as the train was full of holidaymakers returning to their homes. Hopefully, they got a lot from their respective getaways.
It was at a quiet Taynuilt that I disembarked. In my experience, this is the sort of sleepy place where you never see any sign of excitement and the season of the year does not change that. You might expect the quiet of a grey if dry day in November and it was thus in 2002 when I first passed here with some friends from Edinburgh. The lack of sunshine did nothing to dispel the scenic magic thanks to the bright autumnal foliage that was on display. Nevertheless, I fancied the idea of seeing the place in bright sunshine so much that another visit followed in July 2003.
It was the latter trot that I reprised in August 2014 and I made sure that I had enough storage for any photos. The encounter in 2003 was blighted by my not bringing enough colour film with me so I certainly was not going to skimp on SD cards. There may have been a changeover from analogue to digital in the world of photography, but some lessons remain as relevant as ever. Having enough battery life is even more important these days given how computerised cameras have become.
Even with year round peace and quiet, there was what felt like an end of season feel to the occasion. It all might have been in my head after seeing so many leaving Oban on the train, but the presence of occasional rain added to whatever melancholy was in my mind.
The route from the train station was one that I knew well. It took me past the Historic Scotland managed Bonawe Iron Works and I left the track after Bonawe House to cross fields and a scary bridge over the River Awe to reach Inverawe House, where there is a smokery. That was left behind me for a while as I joined the old military road. Between this and the turn-off onto a forestry track, I made a phone call to my father to clear that task out of the way for a few days.
Once on the forestry track, a little care was needed because I led my friends astray on that November 2002 outing. Greater familiarity has its uses, so no navigational blunder resulted. The grey skies ensured that photography was stalled for it was the stretch of track leading to Glennoe where I made the error of using up too much colour film.
Beyond Glennoe, the scenery grew more interesting as the weather improved enough to allow photos to be made. The hills still were shrouded under heavy skies as I passed Inverliver and its bay. Inverkinglass was next and the improvement continued. This was as far as I was going so I took a little break for a spot of lunch before retracing my steps. In 2003, I had done so just beyond Ardmaddy and a lad outside one of the huts there probably wondered why I turned to go back on myself. Aside from needing to get back to Oban again, it seemed too adventurous to continue as far as Glen Etive.
That was just as well because I foolishly undertook a walk in June 2005 that was to end with my arriving at Taynuilt Hotel ten minutes before closing time and looking for the phone number of a taxi firm. The main folly was starting out from Loch Awe train station too late in the day for a hike that took me up Glen Strae to reach Lairig Dhoireann before dropping into Glen Kinglass and heading for the familiar shores of Loch Etive. A bunch of lads in a Land Rover that saw me wandering along the track asked me if was all right and one lady around Glennoe asked me if I really was OK. Any prospect of reaching Taynuilt in time for catching a train or bus back to Oban had to be discounted and it was just as well that I had long hours of daylight. Nevertheless, there were compensations from walking on a glorious evening and I got to my lodgings without much incident aside from the taxi meeting with a deer coming against us. Defusing a grumpy father the next day was another price of my adventurous episode and I never rang on the same day of the week again afterwards; always phoning on a Sunday causes trouble on the one occasion that you cannot do so.
There was no such drama in 2014 and the weather had improved so much that I was left looking behind me much of the time. Beinn Trilleachan was catching the light much better than Ben Starav or the hills around Glen Etive. It was enough to make the sight an entrancing one as I drew myself away. The return to Taynuilt was a timely, peaceful and pleasant affair. There was no need to call on the services of a taxi this time around though I cannot recall with confidence if it was a bus or a train got me back to Oban again, such have been the travails of life. Faded recollections appear to suggest that it was by train, though you have to watch for mixing of memories between different trips.
2014-08-31
When Sunday morning came, sunlit blue skies reigned over Oban. This looked like it would become the better day of the weekend and the walk from my hotel to the Caledonian Macbrayne ferry terminal granted me delightful views of Oban Bay, Kerrera and more distant hills of Mull. Others had the same idea, so the first sailing of the day from Oban to Mull was not an underused affair. Staying on deck granted me sunlit views all the way and the scenery of the island of Lismore, up Loch Linnhe and along the steep coast of Morvern.
Mull looked a cloudier place so I was left wondering if my choice was misguided. Nevertheless, sunshine was to visit the island and I was not to be left feeling forlorn. When we docked, there were buses waiting to ferry folk around the island. Tobermory and Fionnphort were among the available island destinations. Some, no doubt would have had designs on a visit to Iona like I did with my brother in 1999.
What I had in mind was something less taxing than even that. The inspiration also came from 1999 when I undertook a day trip to Mull from Edinburgh. Then, my stroll passed Torosay Castle while on the way to Duart Point. That not only has magical views along the Sound of Mull and up Loch Linnhe but it also is the site of a restored castle that has been known to star in the occasional feature film, possibly because of its fairytale appearance. Though I left the mainland under cloudy skies, things were to cheer up on Mull to the point that some photos were made with my Ricoh compact camera.
Like its forbear, this walk also took along the road through Craignure and it was not far to the track leading to Torosay Castle that gave me respite from road walking. The little railway that shadows the track no longer runs like it did on the day of my first visit. All was peaceful with the sun breaking through to liven up any views of the Sound of Mull. Passing the castle, I got to the road again and struck on for the junction where I would meet with the minor road leading to Duart Castle. While on that single track road, views across Duart Bay opened out as much as those leading the eye towards Morvern. The way to the castle felt longer than it was and it was plain that part of it was surrounded by scaffolding, the closer I came.
Unlike the previous visit, I did not rush away from Duart Point. In fact, I dallied quite a while and could do so thanks to my having more time than on that day trip from Edinburgh. With the way that the sun was ducking behind clouds, it was just as well for the hoped-for photos would need patience. The scaffolding meant that I would have to choose any vantage point carefully and there was one by the coastline that did the job perfectly when the sun shone. There were clear views towards Lismore island and its nearby lighthouse with Loch Linnhe stretching into the distance surrounded by an array of lofty mountains. All was idyllic, exactly the antidote to the frenzy of modern living.
On my return to Craignure, I simply retraced my steps like I did the day before. Though I did wonder whether to go around by Torosay Castle again, reversing a walk grants you different sights and more photo opportunities. Something that does not catch your eye on a first pass could get its chance on a second. Being able to relax helps too and I was in Craignure well before my return ferry crossing. Though it might have been tempting to stay longer, clouds were gathering as if to draw the curtains on what had delighted me. Its takeover of the sky had its uses for I could get something to eat on the boat without feeling guilty that I was rejecting any chances to be further delighted. The cloud was carrying rain in any case, as I found after I had returned to the hotel for the evening. That late arrival made for quite a special day.
Future Possibilities
Trips away often don't end after their return journey. This one was recalled for how quiet the train from Oban to Glasgow was, a complete contrast to the equivalent departure only two days earlier. That is how I remember the journey for the way south from Glasgow scarcely registers at all. It must have been fairly routine then.
Recollections of pleasant experiences often allow a momentary escape from present travails. The ones described here make me wonder if I should write up that November 2002 trip before it falls prey to overwriting by something else life puts my way. The same probably applies to its counterpart from June 2005 and more, especially because it features a cautionary tale that ought to be explored in more depth.
Pleasant memories of old are all well and good but there needs to be a constant supply of new ones as well. That often inspires me to plan new trips. Beinn Lora should be worth exploring and there also is Lismore. Walking all the way from Taynuilt to Glen Etive and even Glen Coe is another idea. A (very) long day should allow its completion in one go and I was left wondering if the Mountain Bothies Association had a bothy at the head of Loch Etive but it seems that they do not. There is one at Cadderlie on the opposite side of the loch from where I usually thread in case that route takes my fancy. If I really get adventurous, there is a hill track that would take you from Bridge of Orchy to Inverkinglass. Having already learned a lesson or two from a previous long hike in the area, this might be one for better planning and even some wild camping. A longer stint on Mull also appeals and I have been known to ponder staying overnight on the island to savour more of what is there. This is a part of the world where I should try to spend more time in spite of other distractions. Possibilities await.
Travel Arrangements
Return train journey between Macclesfield and Oban. Train journey from Oban to Taynuilt followed by a return on Scottish Citylink coach service 976. Return sailing from Oban to Mull.
