An Irish summer
3rd September 2024This summer, I needed to be in Ireland to progress a piece of work that I have wanted to do for a while now. That needed me to have a base here, the purchase of which was completed not so long ago. The work did not need all of my time, so I also got to fit in some day hikes here and there. They allowed me to develop a connection with the place that I never had before, even if this is where I was born, had my upbringing and gained most of my education.
Killarney’s hold on my affections was enough to stymie an ascent of Mangerton with a diversion around by the Knockreer estate and Ross Castle. A second attempt needed self-restraint given those other distractions. That succeeded, and it helped that cloud cover broke to allow some pleasing photos to be made, so much so that I could have missed my train back to Cork. In the event, there was plenty of time for everything. There were other rugged eminences, and they needed to be left for another occasion; an abundance of ruggedness will keep any hill wanderer busy hereabouts.
There was a time in my life when family outings took us to the Ballyhoura Mountains that line part of the county boundary between Limerick and Cork. More recently, though, I have been passing them rather than exploring them. A long summer day provided an exception to this: an out and back trek between Ballyhea and Seefin Mountain, near Ardpatrick. Though plenty of delights were encountered, it also took its toll on me and a period of recovery ensued. Recollections of surrounding views over the counties of Cork, Limerick and Tipperary stay with me, including those of the Galtee Mountains.
Another destination for family outings was Mount Melleray Abbey near Cappoquin in County Waterford. This also inspired a visit when the weather offered. That took in Glenshelane on the way from Cappoquin, and some rough cross-country travel was the cause of getting me to Lismore by following Saint Declan’s Way for much of the route, despite it not being marked on my map. An alternative from EastWest Mapping was acquired later, and I have added a GPX track to Outdooractive for any future traipsing that may come to pass. After all, Lismore remains worth another visit because of its castle; I fancy a photo when the time of day ensures sunlight from the right direction. The place also has associations with the late travel writer, Dervla Murphy.
There was time for a brace of walks near the West Cork coastline too. The first took me from Schull to Ballydehob in bright sunshine. Then, Glengarriff’s nature reserve surprised me with its diverse trails, leaving me eager to return and explore more of the area. Thus, a challenging but rewarding hike along part of the Beara Way from Adrigole to Glengarriff followed, offering impressive scenery despite waterlogged terrain and often cloudy skies. The end of the set took me to the Sheep’s Head Peninsula for a short walk between Kilcrohane and Ahakista that bus service timings allowed. Though a little too rushed for my liking given the stunning surroundings, There remained ample time for admiring stunning views of both the Beara and Mizen Head peninsulas across their respective bays, Bantry Bay and Dunmanus Bay.
These were not all, since there have been encounters with Doneraile, Cashel, Cahir and Galway too. There may not have been hiking trips, per se, but some lay the ground for future escapades, too. All in all, it has been a summer filled with traipsing along long-distance trails and looped walks, along with other bespoke routing. The variety has extended from hill tops and forested trails to coastal paths and historic sites, mostly accompanied by some sunshine.
All reconnected me with my home country in a new way, while also doing the same for reminisces from a past before life spent in Scotland and England. Back then, Irish public transport did not offer what it does now. The recent expansion under the Connecting Rural Ireland banner has opened up opportunities where once there were few. That really helps for day trips, though the advantages of staying in an area for exploring it in more detail remains. Here, I think about Castletownbere for a walk between there and Adrigole as well as strolling around nearby Bere Island. Something similar applies to exploring many of West Cork’s offshore islands.
That gets accentuated with increasing mileage. For instance, a day trip to Connemara from Cork does not work very well. Limerick might work better, but Galway is a much better base. Even then, that probably is not so ideal for Mayo, while Sligo and Donegal are another matter entirely. Even with a base in a country, it only allows for so much.
All of that is thinking ahead, though. The reality is that this summer has both reminded of past ones in Ireland and better connected me with various stomping grounds, old and new. For too long, I chided myself for not savouring the delights of the place of my birth. That has changed in recent years, and there is much more to sample yet.
