Category: Places Explored
Heading southwest
16th August 2025 Last weekend, I ventured to parts of England that I had not visited before: Devon and Cornwall. My base was Exeter, and any strolling was mainly urban in nature. Nevertheless, I did head out of the city by the banks of the River Exe and the Exeter Canal as far as Riverside Valley Park before turning back again. While others were so minded, there was ample space to avoid any sense of being overcrowded.
One back within city limits, I headed to its cathedral district on a photographic errand before ambling back to my hotel around by the city's Victorian era catacombs and a former abbey. After attending to a matter, the evening sunshine sent me wandering again, this time as far as Exmouth, where I pottered around by a coastline with many enjoying the glorious weather. As the day proceed to a close, I continued as far as Orcombe Point.
Since a landscape photographer was stationed there with her tripod-mounted camera, I did not intrude and set off to make my way back within urban surroundings again. Using a permissive path on National Trust land became the cause of my going astray, not a brilliant with the sun having retreated beneath the horizon. This caused me to follow more of the South West Coast Path than was ideal at the time.
The sense of urgency with which I made my made through Devon Cliffs Holiday Park may have attracted the attention of security if overheard radio chatter at the park gate was any indication. One past that point, all was unhindered and without any untoward exchange of words. Fortuitously, a bus was seen to pass on its way into the park, so I waited for it to turn around so I could speed up my return to Exmouth train station, feeling more than a bit foolish on the way after my blundering.
That sheepishness had plenty of time to fade over the following day. It was mainly occupied by proceeding as far as Penzance on the first rail departure of the day. The three-hour journey time was new information to me, yet I was not deterred. Getting to Cornwall for the first time was enough of a motivation. While St. Michael's Mount was ever present in eastern coastal views, it was just too far to walk there and back due to the travel time back to Macclesfield.
After strolling around the place for more than an hour, I was ready to set off again. Fancying a brief stopover in Plymouth, an idea with which I toyed the previous afternoon, I left on an earlier train. If I had expected forty-five minutes to suffice for an out and back hike to Plymouth's shoreline, I was to be proven wrong. Though that delayed my departure from the city by an hour, it was more than worthwhile with what was there to be savoured. That I got a quieter carriage for the journey as far as Birmingham was an added bonus.
The tight connection in Birmingham was a concern to me, especially given a hold up on the approach to New Street Station. Nevertheless, all was well, and I made an earlier coach connection from Wilmslow to Macclesfield too. If I had left Penzance or Plymouth later than I did, I might have been far more concerned.
That dalliance with the tail end of the Jurassic Coast near Exmouth popped another idea into my head for a weekend getaway. However, reaching the Dorset coast appears too long for an after work getaway of a Friday evening. Travel connections in the area are not as convenient either, causing me to question the motivation for such a proposal. Thus, I am leaving this prospect aside, at least for now. Catching Ely of a sunny weekend is more practicable and realisable, so that could be next.
Travel Arrangements
Here is the itinerary for this journey: 1. Travel from Macclesfield to Wilmslow: Taking a rail replacement coach service. 2. Wilmslow to Exeter: Catch a train, changing at Birmingham New Street. 3. Exeter to Penzance: Continuing the journey on a direct train. 4. Penzance to Plymouth: Board the train to Plymouth. 5. Plymouth to Wilmslow: Head back with a train change at Birmingham New Street. 6. Final stretch from Wilmslow to Macclesfield: By rail replacement coach service.
Outdoor possibilities around Europe
12th August 2025 It is only in the past few weeks that I completed DK's Outdoor Europe, which is more of a coffee table offering than the actual way that I surveyed it: mainly by perusal on a mobile device. Now, I have moved onto the same publisher's Hike: Adventures on Foot. The act of collecting ideas for future escapades is ongoing, a somewhat pressing need after exhausting so many possibilities in the last few years. Catching up on unread copies of Wanderlust is another part of this effort; any sense of exhaustion is being negated.
One of the things that surprised me about Outdoor Europe is the number of outdoor activities that they included. Sometimes, I was asking myself is hairs were being split to increase the number. A good example is the division made between walking, hiking and trekking. To me, these are variations on a theme. The same might be said for any form of wildlife watching, and there are others like this.
Nevertheless, there is such a range of activities included that I am unlikely to try all of them. After all, adrenaline-fuelled exploits are not my lot; gentler, more experiential alternatives are what I seek, with atmosphere and sense of place mattering more to me than personal activity. Add in a span across seasons, terrains and levels of experience and everyone has choices to make.
The compilation dates from 2021, which means that geopolitical realities intrude that were not such a concern back then. That means that some suggested destinations are now off limits. These include Belovezhskaya Pushcha in Belarus (forest walking) and Optymistychna in Ukraine (spelunking), along with others in Russia: Caucasus Nature Reserve (botanising), Murmansk (ice swimming) and Mount Elbrus (climbing Europe's continental top) in Russia.
Otherwise, I thought that I would mention the remaining possibilities, at least for my own consultation. Naturally, you can check out the book itself for more detail, though it too is necessarily brief. Your planning is going to need more effort should you want to visit any of these in the future. Having the awareness of what is there remains a start, though. Here goes, then.
Quieter Appreciation
This is where the old line about stopping and staring comes into play. Slowing down to allow nature to seep into you does wonders. The stresses and strains of life become far away to enervation to transform into energisation. We have been needing to immerse ourselves in nature for eons. A comment highlighting that from the nineteenth century has become timeless.
Woodland Incursions and Wildlife Encounters
Time in forests can also be an end in itself. The Sightseeing Forest Path at Marcinkonys in Lithuania threads pine forest and raised bog with wooden walkways that keep feet dry while the landscape tells its story. Coming west, Belgium’s Sonian Forest, a large remnant of beech woodland near Brussels, demonstrates how expansive tree cover can transform sound and pace even close to a major city.
Botanical interest can guide travel choices as effectively as any summit or beach. For instance, Wengen in Switzerland places alpine meadows and high pastures within easy reach of mountain transport. In the Mediterranean, Crete in Greece supports a high proportion of endemic plants, especially in spring, when gorges and hillsides burst into flower. For those fascinated by the sight of glades of bluebells, Ashenbank Wood in England offers an accessible ancient woodland experience.
Wildlife watching remains one of the most absorbing ways to meet the seasons. Svalbard in Norway is defined by its high-Arctic encounters, from reindeer on tundra to seabird cliffs above icy fjords. In Finland, the Kainuu Forest holds brown bears and wild forest reindeer among spruce and peatland mosaics that reward patient observation. The Carpathian Mountains in Romania support large carnivores and an extensive flora, with rugged ridges and deep beech woods creating a sense of continuity. One of Europe’s primeval lowland forests, Białowieża Forest in Poland is known for European bison and an old-growth ambience that changes subtly across the year.
Birdwatching across Europe rewards patient scanning and an ear for calls. Spain’s Picos de Europa supports raptors on limestone cliffs and alpine meadows. Mykines in the Faroe Islands, Denmark, hosts breeding seabirds that crowd ledges and grassy slopes. Romania’s Danube Delta spreads a labyrinth of channels that shelter herons, pelicans and countless migrants, while Norway’s Lofoten Islands combine cliffs and skerries with ever-changing light.
Marine wildlife watching offers encounters that remain long in the memory. England’s Northumberland coast sees seals hauled out on sandbanks and seabird colonies alive with sound. Finland’s Lake Saimaa is home to the rare Saimaa ringed seal, best admired from a respectful distance in quiet bays. The Azores in Portugal provide deep-water whale watching with a long season and island scenery that fills the gaps between sightings.
Wild Wellness
Thermal waters have long offered rest after exertion. Italy’s Saturnia flows over travertine terraces with steady warmth, while Iceland’s Landmannalaugar contrasts hot streams with rhyolite hills and summer hiking. In Albania, the Bënja Thermal Baths sit in a river valley setting that pairs geothermal pools with a stone bridge and mountain views.
Mudbathing retains its old-world charm across several enchanting European locales, each offering a distinctive blend of therapeutic tradition and natural wonder. Italy's Vulcano beckons visitors with sulphurous mud pools heated by geothermal activity, while Romania's Lake Techirghiol provides a coastal sanctuary where its sapropelic mud has earned an international recognition. Along the Black Sea coast, Bulgaria's Lake Atanasovsko presents perhaps the most spectacular setting whilst simultaneously serving as a premier birdwatching destination, its hyper-saline waters turn pink from microscopic brine shrimp.
Along the shore, the age-old practice of coastal foraging invites unhurried exploration, drawing the curious wanderer to discover the edible treasures hidden in plain sight. In Argyll, Scotland's rugged peninsulas and sheltered sea lochs create a paradise where deep, nutrient-rich waters nurture an extraordinary variety of seaweeds. Moving to Ireland, Galway's dramatic coastline reveals tidal pools that conceal winkles, mussels and crabs beneath carpets of seaweed. Going east, the Oosterschelde in the Netherlands presents vast tidal flats where centuries of careful stewardship have created a unique productive marine environment.
The treasures of edible landscapes extend far beyond coastal regions, offering remarkable discoveries deep within Europe's ancient forests. In Italy's prestigious Piedmont region, autumn mists through valleys where the famed white truffles of Alba emerge. Moving northward to Sweden's vast wilderness, the tradition takes on an entirely different character through allemansrätten, the right of public access that grants everyone freedom to roam Swedish nature. Finally, Germany's mystical Black Forest continues this rich European foraging tradition, where misty atmospheres and moist soil create perfect conditions for fungi to flourish beneath towering conifers.
Nights Outdoors
For those who seek nights under canvas, wild camping options create memorable, low-impact stays. Scotland’s Cairngorms, with responsible access rights, enable respectful overnighting in a high plateau and pinewood setting. Norway’s Lofoten Islands combine beaches and peaks with long summer light, while Finland’s Archipelago National Park features islets that reward careful planning. Estonia’s Lahemaa National Park adds coastal pine forests and boulder-strewn shores, and England’s Dartmoor National Park retains designated rights that encourage Leave No Trace principles.
The aurora is another draw of the far north, inviting winter nights filled with patient sky-watching. Tromsø in Norway offers coastal weather windows and easy access to darker inland skies. Saariselkä in Finland stands under frequently clear sub-Arctic nights, while Scotland’s Moray Coast can surprise with auroral arcs when conditions align. Jökulsárlón in Iceland adds the reflective surface of an iceberg-dotted lagoon, and Abisko in Sweden enjoys a local rain shadow that often opens holes in cloudy skies.
Clear skies and careful light management create truly memorable nights under the stars, with La Palma in Spain's Canary Islands earning recognition as the world's first UNESCO Starlight Reserve in 2012. Moving north to England, Exmoor National Park employs strict lighting controls to maintain pristine conditions for Milky Way viewing, whilst Hungary's remarkable Zselic Starry Sky Park follows the same thinking. The beauty continues in Italy's rolling Tuscan hills, where isolated ridges provide wonderfully broad horizons that frame the night sky perfectly, and finally in Germany, where Westhavelland Nature Park serves as the country's first Dark Sky Park despite its proximity to major cities.
Active Exploration on Land from Trail to Rock
Many know me for cycling, not that I do it very much these days. One dalliance with mountain biking convinced me that my temperament was incompatible; downhill progress is beyond me, which affects road cycling too, and busy roads are no help either. That leaves walking and hiking, which has been a marvellous way to wander through the countryside.
Making Discoveries on Foot
For those who prefer to keep their feet on more level ground, there are walking routes that spotlight both subtle and spectacular scenery. Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia threads boardwalks among turquoise pools and tiered cascades in a way that showcases aquatic geology as much as forest quietude. In Switzerland, the Waterfall Trail brings repeated encounters with alpine torrents that draw the eye and ear alike. The Camønoen Trail in Denmark follows coastal edges and rural byways with a measured, lowland charm, while Luxembourg’s Mullerthal Trail winds through sandstone gorges and beech woods that feel a world away from urban bustle. In Wales, the Mawddach Trail uses a former railway to guide walkers along an estuary with mountain backdrops and big skies that change with the tide.
Hiking in its broader sense adds depth to any itinerary, especially when you add ascents and descents to a route. Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park in Spain scatters lakes under granite spires and offers strong waymarking. Crete’s Samariá Gorge channels walkers through dramatic narrows to the Libyan Sea. Scotland’s West Highland Way forms a rite of passage between Milngavie and Fort William, while France’s Puy de Dôme provides a shorter volcanic ascent with educational interpretation. Albania’s Accursed Mountains frame valleys and passes that are increasingly accessible yet still feel remote.
Long-distance trekking with overnight stops in mountain huts turns a journey into a rhythm. Iceland’s Laugavegur Trail joins geothermal valleys, obsidian deserts and mossy hills over a compact route that packs in variety. Sweden’s Kungsleden, the King’s Trail, is a larger undertaking with Arctic light and broad valleys. On Corsica, the GR20 becomes a serious alpine walk across a rugged spine that demands sound planning and steady feet.
Running and Rolling over Solid Ground
Running routes thread through quiet valleys and steep passes, giving trail runners both challenge and reward. The Dolomites in Italy provide airy traverses among jagged limestone towers, while Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Dinaric Alps supply remote ridgelines and karst features with limited crowds. Scotland’s Loch an Eilein pairs lochside paths with pinewoods and views to Cairngorm plateaux that invite a measured rhythm.
On roads, cycling itineraries stitch together heritage and scenery with well-planned wayfinding. The route from Amsterdam to Utrecht rides flat polder land and canal banks, with a culture of cycling that encourages steady progress. Lithuania’s Curonian Spit crosses dunes and forest between lagoon and Baltic Sea, with variable winds and open horizons. Mallorca in Spain draws riders to mountain switchbacks and coastal rollers, while Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Ciro Trail repurposes a railway corridor for a calmer, gravel-leaning journey. Ireland’s Beara Peninsula offers quiet lanes, Atlantic outlooks and the odd tough climb, rewarding patience with repeated seaward vistas.
Cycling off-road takes us to Davagh Forest in Northern Ireland, which combines flow trails with darker skies that are noteworthy in their own right. Norway’s Hafjell Bike Park blends machine-built features with alpine scenery, while Šumava in Czechia encourages longer-distance exploration on forest roads and single track. Germany’s Geisskopf Bike Park rounds things out with graded runs and a long season.
Going Vertical, Getting Close to Rock
Protected routes with fixed steel, the via ferrata, give a way into vertical terrain. In Italy, the Dolomites present historic and modern lines across soaring limestone, with ladders and cables making improbable ridges accessible to sure-footed parties. Austria’s Marokka introduces shorter, enjoyable sections ideal for building confidence, and Slovenia’s Julian Alps showcase airy traverses with views over karst and forest.
Bouldering destinations provide technical puzzles on compact outcrops. France’s Fontainebleau remains a standard-bearer, with sandstone circuits that test balance and footwork. Prilep in North Macedonia introduces coarse granite fields and open vistas, while Spain’s Albarracín sets sandstone blocs in pinewoods with an appealing spread of grades.
Climbers encounter distinct rock styles across short distances. Sicily in Italy offers limestone crags with generous winter sun and routes of varied difficulty. Germany’s Frankenjura presents pocketed limestone with a storied sport climbing history, while Poland’s Tatra Mountains provide alpine routes on granite and limestone ridges. Paklenica National Park in Croatia mixes canyon walls, traditional lines and sport routes, with the Adriatic never far from sight.
Watery Wandering
Being something of a landlubber in the outdoors, these activities are beyond my normal spectrum. Indoor swimming was done vastly more regularly than its outdoor counterpart; a foot ailment stalled both in more recent years. Brief encounters with sailing and kayaking came my way during university and school years, only never to get followed up for one reason or another.
Plunging into Wonder
Wild swimming captures the imagination through its promise of crystal-clear waters, stunning natural settings and the adventure of reaching secluded spots. On Thassos in Greece, the Giola Lagoon offers a natural rock pool with a view to the Aegean, where waves crash against the edge, occasionally spilling over, refreshing the pool with seawater. Moving north to Wales, Snowdonia holds mountain lakes and rivers that feel bracing at any time of year that reward intrepid swimmers with mountain swimming at its most dramatic. For those seeking a gentler introduction to alpine swimming, Slovenia's Lake Bled pairs a calm surface with a photogenic island and castle.
Cold-water immersion comes with its own rituals and rewards, creating a deeply personal yet universally captivating experience that transcends mere physical sensation. In Reykjavík, Iceland's capital, the tradition takes on a unique character as the city facilitates both sea and geothermal-fed dips within easy reach. Meanwhile, in Rovaniemi, Finland's Arctic circle capital, the practice often pairs a plunge with sauna in a routine that has deep cultural roots stretching back thousands of years, where the alternation between intense heat and frigid cold creates what locals describe as a profound act of balance and harmony.
For snorkellers seeking crystal-clear encounters with underwater life, Europe's shallower waters offer extraordinary diversity and visibility that rivals any tropical destination. Croatia's dramatic Makarska Riviera presents limestone coves carved by ancient seas, where the Adriatic's exceptional transparency reveals schools of sea bream as well as octopuses and starfish. Moving south to Sardinia's northeastern coast, the Marine Protected Area of Tavolara creates an underwater sanctuary where strict conservation has nurtured thriving Posidonia meadows and granite reefs. In Scotland's wilder waters, North Harris offers a compellingly different experience, where patient snorkellers are rewarded with glimpses of playful otters hunting among towering kelp forests. Finally, Spain's Medes Islands stand as a testament to decades of careful management that have created an underwater paradise where every dive feels like exploring a living museum of Mediterranean marine life.
Beneath the surface, Europe's diving sites offer adventures that range from the hauntingly beautiful to the spectacularly vibrant. In Italy's Portofino Marine Park, divers discover golden cup corals and red gorgonians adorning pristine rocky reefs whilst exploring the haunting bronze figure of Christ of the Abyss. Iceland's legendary Silfra presents a thoroughly different experience, where glacial meltwater filtered through volcanic rock for decades creates visibility exceeding 100 metres in a crystalline fissure between tectonic plates. Meanwhile, Malta's Gozo enchants with its dramatic limestone formations that include the famous Blue Hole. Finally, the Greek island of Chios combines the best of Mediterranean diving with its extensive network of underwater caverns, colourful reef walls, and remarkable biodiversity.
Paddling Along the Surface
Standing upright on a board has found its way into inland and tidal settings alike, transforming from a niche pursuit into one of Europe's fastest-growing water sports. The IJsselmeer in the Netherlands provides broad, relatively protected water that suits first strokes and longer crossings, where beginners can build confidence on this vast inland sea without battling ocean swells. Moving south along the meandering border between England and Wales, the Wye Valley combines wooded banks and gentle flows with atmospheric ruins to punctuate the journey. Further east in the heart of the Bavarian Alps, Germany's Eibsee reflects the towering Wetterstein range in its pristine surface, where calm mornings reward early starts with solitude and alpine vistas so perfect they appear almost ethereal.
Kayaking opens coastlines, rivers and lakes to quiet exploration, revealing hidden worlds where tranquil waters mirror soaring cliffs and ancient history whispers from the shores. In France, the Gardon River offers an extraordinary journey where you can paddle beneath the magnificent 2,000-year-old Pont du Gard. From these sun-warmed waters, the adventuring continues in Poland's Masurian Lakes, where over 2,000 interconnected glacial lakes stretch beneath endless skies. Surroundings narrow dramatically in North Macedonia's Matka Gorge, where towering limestone walls plunge into an artificial lake of extraordinary emerald beauty. Finally, our survey takes us to Norway's Tromsø, where sea kayakers glide among islands and fjords surrounded by snow-capped peaks.
Paddlers seeking slow, contemplative journeys discover that inland waters perfectly match a canoe's unhurried rhythm, and three destinations across Europe offer particularly enchanting experiences that blend natural beauty with rich cultural heritage. In Northern Ireland, the Lough Erne Canoe Trail weaves together a mesmerising maze of islands and tranquil bays. Moving east to the Czech Republic, the Vltava River adds the gentle thrill of current to the mix, carrying paddlers past fairy-tale river towns and medieval castles. Meanwhile, in the remote wilderness of eastern Finland, the historic Tar Route guides canoeists through an intricate network of forest lakes connected by winding passages.
Whitewater rafting transforms with each river's personality, offering adventures that shift dramatically as waters rise and fall throughout the seasons. Montenegro's legendary Tara River carves through Europe's deepest canyon at an astounding 1,300 metres, mixing foaming rapids with peaceful beach stops. Moving to Italy's magnificent Val di Sole, the Noce River earned recognition from National Geographic as one of the world's top ten rafting destinations. Meanwhile, France's reliable Dranse River near Lake Geneva offers an entirely different experience, with dam-controlled flows from hydroelectric operations ensuring consistent water levels throughout the season.
Where Land Meets Water
Moving through watercourses can take on a vertical dimension when you venture into canyoning destinations. Austria's Ötztal region showcases narrow waterways that have carved spectacular turquoise pools and abseil lines through ancient gneiss rock formations. Meanwhile, Mount Kissavos in Greece presents warm stone formations along the eastern slopes overlooking the Aegean Sea, where seasonal flows create varied descents through canyon systems like the impressive Calypso gorge that combine crystal-clear pools with Mediterranean warmth. Further south, Montenegro's Nevidio Canyon presents an altogether different experience, featuring deep gorges with sculpted walls that create a profound sense of immersion in what was Europe's last discovered canyon.
Where waves meet rock in a relentless dance of power and precision, coasteering emerges as an adventure sport that demands equal measures of courage and tide awareness. The Welsh coastline of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park did not just inspire this thrilling activity but birthed it entirely, with its dramatic sea caves, exhilarating cliff jumps and wild swimming routes that thread together some of Britain's most spectacular headlands. From these beginnings, the sport has spread to equally captivating destinations like Portugal's sun-drenched Arrábida Natural Park, where Atlantic waters lap against towering limestone cliffs just a short journey from Lisbon's bustling streets, whilst Ireland's wild Connemara coast brings its own magnetic appeal with headlands carved by Atlantic storms.
Natural Propulsion with Wave and Wind
Surf breaks pick up the Atlantic and North Sea swell along many shores. Cornwall in England ranges from gentler beach breaks to hollow reefs, while Portrush in Northern Ireland combines consistent waves with dramatic headlands. Klitmøller in Denmark, sometimes dubbed Cold Hawaii, aligns wind and sandbanks for a reliable setup, and Comporta in Portugal adds long beaches south of Lisbon with shifting banks that reward local knowledge.
Windsurfing has become far more than just another classic pursuit, transforming into a phenomenon that draws enthusiasts to some of the world's most spectacular coastal playgrounds. Sotavento Beach on Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands perfectly exemplifies this evolution, where its sandy lagoons combine with reliable trade winds to create ideal conditions for windsurfing progression and speed runs. Moving across the Mediterranean, Porto Pollo in Sardinia, Italy, offers a wholly different but equally compelling experience with its dual bays that cater to different wind directions. Perhaps most dramatically, the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland brings an entirely different character to wind sports, where the combination of Gulf Stream waters and prevailing southwesterly winds from the Atlantic Ocean creates perfect conditions.
Across Europe's dynamic coastlines, kiteboarding enthusiasts discover an extraordinary collection of spots where powerful winds transform beaches, lagoons, and bays into thrilling aerial playgrounds. Portugal's Óbidos lagoon offers ideal flat water conditions with constant yet manageable winds. Moving south to Spain's legendary wind corridor, Tarifa commands its status as Europe's kiteboarding capital, with approximately 300 days of wind annually. Along the Baltic's windswept shores, Latvia's Liepāja spreads its sandy expanse beneath consistently reliable breezes, whilst Cyprus showcases the charming village of Pissouri, where warm Mediterranean waters meet coastal hills. Finally, Germany's Sankt Peter-Ording presents one of Europe's most dramatic kiting landscapes, with its vast stretch of beach offering everything from shallow lagoons to powerful wave spots.
For wind and wave, sailing grounds beckon across latitudes, each offering its own distinctive character and challenges. Sweden's Stockholm Archipelago spreads out some 30,000 granite islets and sheltered channels where decent breezes, flat water and pleasant temperatures make for a sailor's paradise. Moving south to warmer climes, the Cyclades in Greece bring meltemi winds alongside whitewashed harbours and line-of-sight passages where the crystal-clear water of the Aegean Sea is perfect for swimming and snorkelling. Meanwhile, Split in Croatia continues this Mediterranean appeal, offering a gateway to Dalmatian islands blessed with reliable summer breezes and clear water anchorages that have made the region a favourite among charterers seeking both adventure and relaxation in equal measure.
Wintry Adventuring
Where Frozen Waterways Meet Mountain Adventures
When winter's icy embrace transforms the natural world, frozen waterways become extraordinary playgrounds that dwarf any indoor venue. Switzerland's majestic Lac de Joux exemplifies this winter magic, where mountain silhouettes and broad Alpine horizons that make the scale feel almost otherworldly. Moving eastward, Czechia's Lipno Lake offers similarly spectacular conditions, where the frozen reservoir becomes home to the world's longest skating track. Yet perhaps the most dramatic setting lies in Sweden's far north, where Luleå's archipelago creates an eight-mile circuit that loops through frozen sea ice, allowing skaters to glide between islands beneath the ethereal glow of the Arctic twilight.
When winter arrives, simple pleasures return with gravity-assisted fun, offering exhilarating escapes that combine nostalgia with pure adrenaline. Korketrekkeren in Oslo, Norway, provides a winter toboggan run through woods that is as much about atmosphere as speed. Moving across Europe to the French Alps, France's Cosmojet in Val Thorens offers a longer descent at high altitude, where adventurers board the Péclet Funitel to reach 3,000 metres before embarking on an incredible experience on a marked trail in the heart of a magnificent natural valley. Meanwhile, Leysin in Switzerland keeps the mood light with purpose-built courses and mountain views, all set against panoramic views of the Swiss Alps.
When winter transforms the landscape into an enchanting white canvas, snowshoeing unlocks hillsides that would otherwise remain impassable without skis, opening up a world of serene exploration across some of Europe's most captivating mountain regions. Austria's Tyrol beckons with its meticulously marked trails winding through snow-laden forests and sun-drenched alpine meadows, where the ascent to peaks like Feilkopf reveals breathtaking panoramic views with minimal avalanche exposure. Moving eastward to Transylvania in Romania, this mystical region drapes its ancient villages and wooded ridges with a pristine blanket of snow that muffles all sound save for the satisfying crunch beneath your snowshoes. Meanwhile, France's spectacular Mercantour National Park offers an altogether different but equally mesmerising experience, with its famous balcony trails suspended high above deep valleys carpeted with ancient larch stands.
Beyond the Beaten Piste
Snow transforms mountains into extraordinary winter playgrounds, breathing life into landscapes that attract skiers and snowboarders from across the globe. Norway's remarkable Lyngen Alps offer an unparalleled experience, where dramatic fjord-facing descents meet some of the world's most spectacular ski-touring terrain. Moving south to the heart of the Alps, Italy's extensive Via Lattea ski area creates a truly international adventure by seamlessly linking six Italian resorts with France's Montgenèvre across an impressive network of interconnected pistes that cross national borders effortlessly. In Austria's renowned Salzburg region, Saalbach-Hinterglemm has perfected the art of circuit-style through a network of modern lifts linking peaks, valleys, and charming Alpine villages, whilst Serbia's Kopaonik provides a refreshing alternative with its reliable winter conditions and notably gentler gradient profile.
Nordic trails for cross-country skiing set a different pace and pulse across the continent's most captivating landscapes. In Estonia, Otepää reigns as the country's celebrated winter capital, where the Tehvandi Sports Centre transforms into a haven for Nordic skiing enthusiasts. Meanwhile, across the continent in France's stunning Pyrenees, the Cerdagne-Capcir region emerges as a Nordic paradise, mixing plateau circuits with breathtaking mountain vistas within the heart of the Catalan Pyrenees Natural Park. Further north in Germany, Schwangau presents meticulously prepared trails winding through the districts surrounding the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau.
From Glaciated Summits to Frozen Waterfalls
Glaciated peaks and high summits form targets for mountaineers with the right skills and support. Mont Blanc in France requires careful weather judgement and a flexible approach, while Sweden’s Kebnekaise is a northern option with contrasting routes to its twin summits. Italy’s Gran Paradiso often serves as an introductory 4000er, and Spain’s Mulhacén completes the set in the Sierra Nevada with a broad summit ridge and expansive views.
Ice climbing transforms the simple act of movement into a series of calculated decisions played out against nature's most unforgiving medium. In Slovenia's Mlačca Gorge, winter creates a dependable ice climbing centre with three main waterfalls between 30 and 40 metres high. Moving northward to Norway, Rjukan's valley holds over 150 waterfalls, with a unique geography ensuring that no direct sunlight reaches the valley floor between October and March to create remarkably stable ice throughout the season. In the heart of the Swiss Alps, Kandersteg sits in the Berne Canton on the west of the Jungfrau massif and has established itself as a European ice climbing mecca.
Going Over and Under
What remains are some pursuits that feel too adventurous for me. Going underground into caves is part of that, though show caves remain a possibility. Then, there is going airborne and at speed too. The endurance of travelling in cable cars may tell you that kind of thing is not a big attraction for my nervous psyche either. These are best left to others, I reckon.
There are those who prefer to see the ground drop away beneath them. Paragliding sites like Gudauri in Georgia offer big-mountain thermals and wide alpine valleys, while Lake Annecy in France mixes reliable conditions with a scenic lake and surrounding peaks. In Ölüdeniz in Turkey, you can descend from the heights of Babadağ to a blue lagoon shoreline, blending coastal and mountain airflows into long, steady flights.
When the urge for high-speed thrills meets dramatic landscapes, ziplines deliver an unmatched rush that transforms how you experience a place. First, Croatia's Cetina Canyon offers eight exhilarating runs strung across a limestone gorge carved by the country's most water-rich river. Meanwhile, Next, Austria's Stoderzinken sends you down Europe's longest zipline above Alpine meadows and forests. Then there's Snowdonia's spectacular Velocity zipline, which goes across the deep blue waters of Penrhyn Quarry, where you fly head-first through air thick with Welsh slate-mining history.
Beneath the surface of ancient landscapes, caving opens vast windows into geological time through cathedral-like chambers and winding corridors carved by millennia of patient water. In the heart of the Pyrénées, La Pierre Saint-Martin reveals itself as one of the world's most extraordinary cave systems, where explorers discover through-trips that weave between France and Spain alongside vertical challenges that plunge into the earth's depths. Meanwhile, across the English Channel, the Yorkshire Dales present their own underground theatre, where classic limestone potholes pierce the emerald hills and rivers perform their ancient magic trick of vanishing underground only to resurge kilometres away through valleys carved by glacial meltwater.
Finding Similarity and Avoiding Overlap
Splitting out outdoor pursuits under tidy categories is not as simple as one might imagine. Speed of movement intrudes as much as location and seasonality, with even the state of matter entering the mix (think gas, liquid, solid). Some will be open to trying new things, while others already have found their niche. In many ways, I am one of the latter. Slower experiential incursions are my lot, while others prefer theirs to be more energised. There is scope for all of us and hopefully room for each just as well.
Across all these activities, there are common threads: an attention to the environment, an awareness of season and conditions, along with a willingness to move at the pace that each place suggests. They percolate into each activity in different ways, yet they are all there in some fashion. Planning with local guidance, respecting access and safety codes, and allowing space for serendipity become non-negotiable realities that keep everything enjoyable and satisfying for each of us.
Tracing footsteps in England’s eastern counties, gathering ideas for more distant escapades
19th July 2025 The summer of 2025 is quieter for me than this time last year; the main need is to get in some freelance revenue now that I have an opportunity to do so. Summertime gallivanting that happened in previous can await because other things matter more right now. Today is wet where I am writing these words, a contrast to last weekend when I pottered off to England's eastern counties seeking some respite from high temperatures.
Then, there was some strolling around Norwich that took me as far as Whitlingham Country Park before I hiked from Brandon to Thetford in advance of a brief visit to Ely. The time was short yet much could be made of what was available, though returning to Ely under brighter skies remains a possibility; Saturday grew more sunny while Sunday grew more cloudy as the respective days wore on.
Otherwise, I have returned to unread copies of Wanderlust magazine to collect ideas for future overseas escapades. My time between contracts appears to have emptied my ideas list, though the need to get revenue-earning freelancing going again cast its own shadow too. With a new start being made, there appears to be opportunity for thinking ahead again.
Online reading is all very good, but perusal of a print magazine allows things to soak in more readily, especially when some relaxation involved. Thus, prospects like hiking trails near Gothenburg or exploring Germany's medieval heartland all beckon. The upheavals on the other side of the Atlantic may pause such designs for now, maybe allowing Antipodean explorations to come to pass. Given how advanced this year is in its lifetime, collection of ideas and collation of possibilities sounds more sensible at this stage.
While last year allowed me to see much of Ireland, the concentration in the province of Munster necessarily meant that other places did not get a visit, and there is much over there. Thus, I remain a subscriber to newsletters from MountainViews. Since these can be lengthy, they can be lengthy; printing them out can be a better idea at times. In any case, here is a synopsis of the latest issue for your perusal:
July 2025 marks a poignant yet celebratory edition of the MountainViews Newsletter, a staple read for hillwalkers and hikers traversing the Irish landscape. As the newsletter unveils a new format that harmonises well with both mobile devices and traditional desktops, it simultaneously honours the legacy of the late Brendan O'Reilly, a cornerstone figure in the MountainViews community. The obituary penned in his memory captures the richness of his contributions, illustrating a man whose passion for hillwalking defied the challenges of gruelling weather and punishing terrains. Brendan's journey of summit bagging, which led him to be the first to complete the Arderin list, is remembered not just for the peaks scaled but for the modesty with which he celebrated his adventures.
In tandem with this tribute, the newsletter also delivers an array of content aimed at invigorating the hiking community. Readers are treated to evocative photo essays that capture the majestic scenery from Ireland's summits, as well as those further afield in places like Patagonia and Spain. Journal entries guide enthusiasts through recent explorations, with highlights on the grandeur of Kippure in Dublin and a deep dive into Welsh County Highpoints, which promise rewarding challenges for those eager to venture beyond familiar terrains.
In true MountainViews spirit, the newsletter extends an invitation for suggestions and volunteer involvement, signifying a collective aim to enhance the quality of its offerings. Sprinkled throughout are engaging accounts detailing both local and international hillwalking exploits. From vivid recollections of a mystical trek in Donegal made remarkable by dry boots and blue skies, to an enticing glimpse into Welsh County Highpoints like Moel Sych and Holyhead Mountain, these stories illustrate hillwalking’s profound capacity to connect us with nature and with each other.
The edition does not shy away from addressing practicalities, touching on the intricacies of accessing some of the more secluded Irish treasures. Its discourse spans experience-based advisories on navigating challenging terrains such as Knocknagussy’s southern face or venturing to the isolated Cullinmore via a scenic Galway route. Such articles underline the newsletter's commitment to being an invaluable resource, combining anecdotal wisdom with meticulous factual detail.
For those with a penchant for exploring, the newsletter lists challenge walks for 2025, detailing both the triumphs of events like the Galtee Challenge and forthcoming commitments such as the Joyce Country Challenge. Meanwhile, video content from seasoned hillwalkers like Peter Nevin offers viewers secondhand adrenaline from treks in remote Scottish landscapes.
Adhering to a dynamic and authoritative tone, MountainViews continues to serve as a bastion of inspiration and information for its readership. As it adapts to new technological platforms, it remains steadfast in its mission to foster a community relieved in sharing the beauty of hillwalking, the personal stories of its adventurers, and the power that comes from understanding and appreciating the natural world. Whether honouring past contributors or preparing for future adventures, this edition of the newsletter stands as a testament to both continuity and change in the ever-evolving landscape of hillwalking in Ireland and beyond.
The above punctuates a life that is otherwise oriented for now. Nevertheless, the act of reaching for pen and paper while seeking new places to explore seems opportune.
Between the rush and the ramble: Swiss cities, Scottish hills and life’s rhythms
28th June 2025 Much has happened since I last posted something on here. After an extended and frustrating period, I am embarking on a freelance assignment with a new client. This came unexpectedly while I was pursing a search for permanent employment. It also turns out that things may be improving on the freelance market, given what I am starting to see elsewhere. Those other opportunities can go to others; when you choose one for yourself, you are implicitly rejecting all everything and everyone else, as a Capuchin priest preached on marriage on a Sunday morning near the end of last year. Sometimes, wisdom can be portable from one context to another.
From Geneva's Via Jacobi to Zurich's Hidden Woodlands
Bookending the above frenzy were trips away from home, first to a conference and then for leisure. The former took me to Geneva, where I got to explore the place in parallel. A Saturday arrival allowed for a Sunday saunter from Coppet back to Geneva that followed the Via Jacobi for much of the way, albeit with some deviations south of Versoix and near Geneva's Botanic Gardens. After getting sated by other strolling around the city, I embarked on an evening visit to Bern on the Friday before I returned to the UK, going by rail all the way home for the sake of added variety.
Zurich also got two visits. The first saw me go to Lucerne on arrival to make the best of the better day of the weekend with some lakeside strolling before venturing into a shady woodland with some ascent involved as I turned back towards the city centre again. A boat trip around Zurichsee made a lot of the mixed weather that came my way the next day, especially during an amble from Rapperswil to nearby Pfäffikon under breaking skies before returning by train. Some city strolling around Zurich followed the passing of a rain shower to round off the trip ahead of a return flight the next day.
The lack of sunny weather around Zurich drew me back later, even if temperatures were higher than what suits me. After following up a work opportunity, I caught up with the place on a sunny if sweltering evening to make some better photos. The next day, I went to Basel to potter through its Altstadt on a circuit taking in the banks of the River Rhine. That was completed in sufficient time to allow more wandering around Zurich after attending to a matter. More photos were made before my rambling among extensive woodland adjoining the city. That had me passing the city's zoo while remarking at the peace that surrounded me in the late evening, a counterpoint to what else was happening in my life.
An Ascent of Fionn Bheinn and a Section of the Great Glen Way
The action that resulted in the new freelance contract happened after all this and to celebrate the success, I made use of a trip idea that was thwarted by a previous frenzy of similar activity. Thus, I went north to Inverness when some sunny weather was on offer. After a late arrival caused by a tardy start, I went on a day trip to Achnasheen to make an ascent of Fionn Bheinn and take whatever views that gained me. An octogenarian was going the same way, but I decided to pass him and hike my own hike in the hope that the gradient would cause him to opt for a short stroll.
The route has a reputation for being boggy, and even a year with a lot of dry weather did not mean my avoiding soggy ground. That made the going more challenging on the initial stage of the ascent before gradients slackened for a while. It was only near the top that I met with better ground. By then, the views really opened out around me, as they had been doing while I gained height. Heat haze curtailed photographic hopes, albeit without taking from any scenic delights. For my descent, I went down by Sàil an Tuim Bhàin and Achnasheen Plantation to return to Achnasheen where I would have a lengthy wait for my train.
It was around five minutes before that arrived that my elderly counterpart arrived after reaching the top, further irking my conscience about having passed him on the way, even if I did need my own quiet time. The American was talkative, and I grabbed a step for getting him onto the train from the low platform, watching that he was OK after his extraordinary exertions. He seemingly ventured further up the carriage, apparently meeting some acquaintances. That was where our encounter ended.
Though myself wearied by my own actions around Fionn Bheinn, I stuck with my plan to follow the Great Glen Way from Drumnadrochit back to Inverness. The day started cloudy, and I contented myself with that as I departed from Drumnadrochit. Nevertheless, cloud cover began to break as I climbed up from the A82. Until the late afternoon, sunshine was to come and go. Before that, I deviated around by Carn na Leitire and relished some quiet road walking in advance of venturing onto trails again.
Then, I got word of some property that I had lost without my realising it and arranged a meet up with the finders to get it back before leaving Inverness for home. The kindness of others never fails to surprise me, leaving me to wonder at my own helpfulness or my perceived lack of it. A friendly chat ensued with passing fellow walkers after those phone calls; they were local and shared with me some knowledge about drove roads before we parted. They also said about travel being downhill from where we were, and they were not at all wrong about that. Being back in Inverness at an appropriate hour meant that I could attend to yet another matter before resting a while in advance of some gentler river bank wandering on a balmy summer's evening. It attempted to belie the forecast of rain for the next day, a failed ruse if ever there was one.
On being reunited with my lost property, I caught the next train to Edinburgh. Travelling meant that I was indoors from any rain. Even a delay due to overrunning engineering works around Pitlochry failed to scupper my progress, despite it meaning that a later departure from Edinburgh was my lot. The mixture of satisfaction and being humbled by the actions of others brought no cause for complaint.
In Reflection
For me, these recent months have been a reminder that life rarely unfolds as we expect it; we never know enough to plan everything; that is an ongoing life lesson for me. Here are some prompts: a freelance opportunity that emerged after a long wait, the kindness of strangers who returned lost property and chance encounters on hill country paths. Then, you can get a contrast between the frenetic pace of a search for work and the measured rhythm of walking at the same time as a juxtaposition of paths trampled and life experienced: sometimes boggy and challenging underfoot, otherwise offering clearer paths and broader views. It all exhibits how mysterious we are and how life is likewise.
There has been much closure to complement all of this mix of parallels and contrasts, too. There may be the prospect of following the South Loch Ness Trail, but that can wait for a weekday when bus times work better for such a venture. Having considered possibilities while I was up north, I am decided on that awaiting another time. With so much satisfaction otherwise gained, there can be no cause for complaint. Other things matter now as life proceeds into a new chapter.
Frantic: When life’s vicissitudes collide with getting away for a long weekend
3rd May 2025 The past week has been hectic for me, hence the title. However, the result of my exertions was an offer for my freelance services that clashed with another opportunity that came to nothing. The offer was accepted despite warnings that it could be rescinded. The coming week will show whether that was a bluff or not.
All this was happening during the first real sign of heat that we experienced this year; the hot, sunny weather was a foretaste of summer. There were local strolls in the midst of the frenzy, a necessity for keeping my mind in order throughout all of it. My mind even turned to a Scottish incursion centred on Inverness that would have allowed a visit to Fionn Bheinn near Achnasheen as well as a stroll from Drumnadrochit back to Inverness along part of the Great Glen Way.
However, there was too much happening to allow the getaway to become a reality. A hotel booking was cancelled after learning that the weather was not as enticing as I might have desired during a sequence of simplification. Having the prospects for another time will do no harm, though. Ideas are not so plentiful in my head as I write these words, anyway.
Business is set to return me to Geneva for a conference, which will be handy for getting to see the place again. The initial motivation for all of this was making connections for securing freelance work as well as building up my knowledge. Some of that may be less pressing after the past week, though it will be good to get out among colleagues again. Wandering the city in pleasant sunshine will be a bonus too.
These are times when being a solopreneur can be isolating, especially when trying to source work in a challenging market. Thus, it is just as well that the wonders of nature at springtime offer much needed solace and consolation. While my wanderings may be curtailed this year, any such encounter only spurs desire for deeper incursions. There may be time for those later.
