Category: Scotland
Hillwalking books: Scotland
25th August 2006 As an enthusiastic hillwalker, I've developed a fondness for expanding my bookshelf over the years, as these books are invaluable for planning my outings. Here are a few of my Scotland-related guides:
SMC Hillwalkers' Guide: The Munros
SMC Hillwalkers' Guide: The Corbetts and Other Scottish Hills
These guides are my go-to resources when I find myself wondering, "What hill is that in the photo?" They are comprehensive and beautifully illustrated with photos of the featured mountains. Recently, while reorganizing the Lochaber section of my photo gallery, I delved into these guides and came up with numerous ideas for a weekend in Kinlochleven. Though not inexpensive, they are well worth the investment. However, they are quite hefty, so I usually keep them at home for planning purposes.
At just £5.99 each, these guides offer incredible value, making it all too easy to accumulate an entire set. Illustrated with maps and photos, the concise route descriptions are perfectly suited for their purpose. My collection includes guides to The Central Highlands, The Cairngorms, The Islands, The Southern Highlands, and The Southern Uplands.
These are Cicerone Guides, coming from a publisher I greatly respect. They provide comprehensive route descriptions and maps as part of their package.
Due to a peculiarity in Scottish law, public rights of way are typically not indicated on Ordnance Survey maps. This makes the Scottish Rights of Way Society's guide indispensable. Many of these tracks are former livestock droving routes, so good navigation skills are essential, as the path may not always be evident on the ground.
For now, these guides fulfil my needs, though I can't rule out the possibility of acquiring more if I decide to explore other parts of Scotland. Nonetheless, I will continue to make the most of what I currently have.
Pitlochry revisited…
27th July 2006 Having paid it a fleeting visit last May, I decided that it was time to pay Pitlochry another visit. Last time, I left it in rain but this time I found it dry apart from a few drops late on Saturday evening. While the rest of the U.K. was sweltering in sunshine, it seems that Highland Perthshire was not feeling the full benefit of the sun. After a warm sunny day on Wednesday, it was a case of sun versus cloud. The former is good for photos but the latter is better for walking so long as conditions remain dry. On Thursday, I was in Kingussie where the sun made no appearance while it was out and about when I returned to base. Friday and Saturday saw the sun in and out of the clouds.
Overnight coach travel got me to Pitlochry for a four night stay that saw me explore the surrounding area. Wednesday itself saw me walk from Kinloch Rannoch on the shores of Loch Rannoch through the hills to Trinafour. Next day, I took myself off to Kingussie to explore its nearby hills, particularly Creag Mhor. On Friday, I managed to return to Kenmore on the shores of Loch Tay for the first time in nearly eight years. I then walked to Aberfeldy, again through the hills. The only fly in the ointment was an unexpected no entry sign to a farmyard, understandable on safety grounds, that made the journey longer than planned, not what you need when you are making for a bus back to Pitlochry. On Saturday, I focused my attention on Ben Vrackie near Pitlochry on a walk that also took in Killecrankie and the shores of Loch Faskally. As if to prove that mountains do make weather, Ben Vrackie got covered in clag when I was there and was anything but warm and summery. If anything, it was breezy and nippy on top: and I always thought that I was overcautious, I was well prepared for this. Things opened up and warmed up later on in my walk.
Unlike the last time, I left Pitlochry basking in sunshine with a cloud-speckled sky. However, like the last time, I left it wondering about a return. Despite all that I had seen, it was just a small sample of what the area held and I felt that I had only scratched the surface. And I encountered friendly people too. For instance, from Pitlochry, it is possible to get to Balmoral and Aviemore in the Cairgorms. Dalwhinnie and nearby Loch Ericht is another possibility. Also, revisiting places that I saw under a blanket of cloud in sunny conditions could be a revelation.
Another idea also holds its attraction: bringing or hiring a bike to explore the area. It is certainly bicycle-friendly and I was cycling around Loch Tay the last time that I visited Kenmore. It is also an idea that gets around the gaps in the public transport network in this part of Scotland and allows more intimate exploration of the area. Before I took up walking, it was the bike that I used to explore the countryside but hilly country and the need to carry/hire one convinced me of the advantages of walking. Maybe, a partial return to previous ways might be in order...
Rail Changes Afoot
4th July 2006 As I pen these words, a sense of melancholy lingers over me, as I ponder the impending alteration to one of Britain's railway networks: the CrossCountry rail franchise. In November 2007, the northern segment of the West Coast Mainline will vanish from the network, allowing trains to be redirected towards the London-Holyhead route. This change, while not imminent, stirs unease within me.
The consequences of this reconfiguration are suboptimal: CrossCountry services will no longer extend beyond Manchester or Crewe. According to recent reports in Rail magazine, Transpennine Express (TPE) has been earmarked for the responsibility of managing services between Manchester and Scotland. I cannot help but view this as a step backwards.
The first challenge that presents itself is capacity. The Voyagers, the trains slated for these services, are four to five-carriage affairs. This may seem adequate, but when considering the sheer volume of passengers that travel northwards, it becomes clear that capacity will be strained.
Another concern lies in the quality of train travel. So long as TPE operates their newer trains, this might not be a significant issue; however, historically, their offerings have been two to three-carriage affairs. One can only hope that we do not encounter the older models, where air conditioning failure is a very real possibility.
Yet, there remain alternative options for those who wish to journey north. Virgin West Coast trains will continue to serve Glasgow, offering solace to those with an appetite for adventure beyond Manchester and Crewe. And if the spirit of extravagance stirs within you, the East Coast Mainline awaits, ready to whisk you away on a journey through England's heartland.
As I gaze out at the horizon, I cannot help but reflect on the changes that lie ahead. The West Coast Mainline, a veritable artery of movement and connection between our great cities, will soon be incomplete. But as one door closes, another opens: a new chapter awaits. Let us hope that it is one filled with comfort, efficiency, and the spirit of adventure that has defined the West Coast Mainline for generations.
Southern Scotland Revisited
18th June 2006 The last two weekends have seen me revisit southern Scotland. This weekend saw me venture among the Southern uplands. My base was Lockerbie (of Pan Am 103 fame) but my walking took me in and around Moffat. One of my rambles was a circular route involving the Southern Upland Way. When I was returning to Moffat by road, a friendly motorist offered a lift to Moffat and I took him up on the offer (not something that I'd normally do for obvious reasons...).
That gave me more time for exploring, and I got a glimpse of the Devil's Beef Tub to boot. Later, I also got to Lochmaben, four miles from Lockerbie. All this got done yesterday but, though pleasant, the day was largely cloudy, and the sun came out just as I had to leave Moffat for Lockerbie (sod's law, really): a later bus would have been perfect. The threat of rain today brought me home on the first southbound train of the day. Nevertheless, the scenery was wonderful, and a return is very tempting.
Last weekend, I planned to savour the hills around Wooler in Northumberland, only for accommodation availability in Berwick-upon-Tweed to change my plans, though it was still useful for a Friday night arrival. Next day, I took myself off to Galashiels by bus and dropped off part of my load at the Abbotsford Arms Hotel (Abbotsford was the name of Sir Walter Scott's home in the area) before using another bus to head for a ramble from Peebles to Innerleithen by way of an old drovers' road and the Southern Upland Way. Unlike yesterday, the sun was very much out, and it would have been quite hot if a useful, if strong, breeze hadn't blown up. Sunday saw me take a short stroll around Galashiels before heading home, starting with a bus journey to Berwick-upon-Tweed and continuing by train from there.
Travel Arrangements
Return train journey between Macclesfield and Lockerbie; return bus journey between Lockerbie and Moffat. Bus journey from Lochmaben back to Lockerbie.
Return train journey between Macclesfield and Berwick-upon-Tweed. On bus route 67 from there to Galashiels via Coldstream, and bus route 60 via Duns to get me back to Berwick-upon-Tweed from there. Onward travel from Galashiels to Peebles on bus service 62, followed by another on the same route from Innerleithen to Galashiels.
Places to go, places to see
14th May 2006 While doing my recent website update (it’s structural rather than being anything more instilling for non-techies), I got to think about possible destinations for walking trips. What triggered it was that I was seeing photos taken in places that I have already been and thinking: I should go back there. Examples include:
Scottish Borders: I paid some visits to Peebles in 2003 but haven’t been since. Galashiels was considered as a destination for the Easter weekend, but it didn’t work out that way; I went to the Isle of Arran instead.
Loch Lomond: On my forays to the Western Highlands, I keep passing this loch and the surrounding area. I only stopped in Balloch in 1999, and there is much more to savour: Ben Lomond, West Highland Way and much more.
Callander and the Trossachs: Another place that I have passed on numerous occasions. I did go walking in Callander’s vicinity in 2002, but a return is overdue.
Loch Tay: While at university in Edinburgh, I went here every year but haven’t been back in ages. It could be combined with Pitlochry and Aberfeldy for a future visit. I have never walked in the area because cycling was my preferred mode of exploration at the time when I frequented it.
Brecon Beacons: So far, I have walked in the Abergavenny locality, but there is far more to see here. It will take more than a day trip to see more of this national park due to transport constraints.
And then there are other ideas again:
Northumberland: I keep reading about its fantastic moorland, and I did walk along its coastline last January. That was only a warm-up for more, though. Due to transport costs (a Saver Return train ticket costs £65-72), a bit of planning is required for a longer stay that does justice to the county. I did have an idea for Easter that would have seen a visit to the Northumbria National Park combined with a trip to the Scottish Borders. It never materialised though and has remained on the shelf.
Pembrokeshire Coastal Path: I have read about this is in the magazine The Great Outdoors and rate it as an idea for a long weekend.
Ireland: I have seen less of my own country than I have of the U.K. and I keep telling myself that I should set that to rights. I am happy to remain living and working in the U.K. so a trip of a few days in length would be what is needed. While I know Cork and Kerry well (and seeing them in my own time would be a bonus), there are other places where I have never been: Wicklow, Connemara, Mayo and Donegal to name some that come to mind. A car would make the whole idea run a lot smoother…
Western Isles: While I have dreamt up this week-long ramble from Lewis to Barra, I am unsure whether it will happen. After all, I did consider Harris after my 2001 break in Scotland. This is the way that it would work: first get to Stornoway (overnight train/coach to Inverness, coach to Ullapool, ferry to Stornoway), travel to Harris by bus, then to North Uist by bus and ferry, onto South Uist via Benbecula (and causeways), taking a ferry to Barra, leave Barra by ferry to Oban. Of course, my plan would to punctuate all of this with walking. Care is required, though, as Sunday is kept very strictly as the Lord’s Day in Lewis and Harris (there has been a row about Calmac running a ferry service on a Sunday) and I don’t fancy being marooned anywhere. I do respect their point of view, though. However, the southern islands are more Catholic and have a more pragmatic approach to this.
Having all of the above in my mind does keep my feet very much on the ground: I haven’t seen anything like all of Britain and Ireland yet.
