Category: Travel
Macclesfield-Dolgellau: A Public Transport Odyssey
14th August 2006 When I started this post about getting from Macclesfield to Dolgellau using public transport, it quickly grew in length. The issue is that there is no direct service between the two places and when you start combining rail and bus services, the number of possibilities is not a small one.
Once upon a time, Dolgellau was a stop on a now largely mothballed train line between Ruabon and Morfa Mawddach, where it joined the Cambrian Coast line. These days, only sections of this remain in preservation: Llangollen to Corwen, Bala Lake railway. I can understand why a single track railway line might be adjudged uneconomic in the 1950's, but I do regard its demise as a tragedy given that it would be a scenic railway journey. Nevertheless, the X94 TrawsCambria bus service performs much the same role these days.
Speaking of buses, Dolgellau is not without regular services connecting it with the outside world. The aforementioned X94 calls while plying its way from Barmouth to and from Wrexham. Another representative of the TrawsCambria network, the X32, calls on its journeys between Bangor, Machynlleth and Aberystwyth. Other services from Dolgellau connect it with the coast between it and Machynlleth and destinations to Blaenau Ffestiniog.
Getting the above to connect with the remaining rail network requires a certain amount of concentration: Barmouth, Aberystwyth, Machynlleth, Bangor, Wrexham and Blaenau Ffestiniog are some of the options: Machynlleth and Barmouth are the nearest. All of these can get you east in the end, but the itineraries, journey times and service frequencies differ: a perusal of train timetables is more than a useful exercise. Four railway lines are implicated in these: the Cambrian, connecting the Welsh coast with the English Midlands (Shrewsbury and Birmingham, for instance); North Wales, Holyhead to Chester and beyond; Vale of Conwy, connects Blaenau Ffestiniog and other places with the North Wales line; Chester-Birmingham, on which Wrexham is a stop.
Now that I have confused you with options for getting from Dolgellau to England, I will share the way that I have tended to go: X94 to Wrexham for regular bus and train connections to Chester. I know that I am going backwards here, but there is another reason for this apart from the cornucopia of Welsh journey options: there is no direct bus or train service between Macclesfield and Chester.
Yes, they are in the same county, but their 43-mile separation takes some bridging without recourse to a car. Quite possibly the quickest way to Chester from Macclesfield is by train with a change in Manchester (formerly part of Lancashire!). A slower option is change at Stockport instead of Manchester. None of these has stopped me catching a bus (Arriva, route 38) to Crewe for an onward train to Chester. There are other alternatives, but they are more complex than these. For sake of completeness, I will quickly list them here:
Macclesfield-Stoke(-on-Trent)-Crewe-Chester: involves three changes, and the Stoke-Crewe connection is the weak point in this rail option.
Macclesfield-Alderley Edge-Crewe-Chester/ Macclesfield-Wilmslow-Crewe-Chester: the first part of this is the Arriva 130 headed for Manchester and the rest is by train; the Crewe-Manchester line is plague by teething problems with a new signalling system.
Macclesfield-Stockport-Crewe-Chester: an all-rail option with the similar caveats to the above; a missed connection in Stockport last Saturday night left me enduring an annoying 70-minute wait for a connection to Macclesfield.
Macclesfield-Knutsford-Chester: looks good on paper, but the first part involves a daytime bus service with almost no Sunday service.
Before I end up writing a book on this, I better leave you in on what I consider to be the best way to go from Macclesfield to Dolgellau (yes, in the forward direction): Macclesfield-Manchester-Chester-Wrexham-Dolgellau. It is all rail to Wrexham and then the X94 the rest of the way. It will take you at least four hours, but it is the speediest of the lot.
Settle-Carlisle Celebration
6th July 2006 Within the rolling hills and rugged landscapes of England, there lies a railway line that has stood the test of time - the Settle-Carlisle extension, a former Midland Railway jewel, marks an auspicious anniversary this year. In 1986, several of its stations were reopened after a period of closure, and to celebrate this momentous occasion, a commemoration is planned for all those who cherish the line's rich heritage.
The fight to keep this vital artery operational during Britain's tumultuous economic journey and Beeching's infamous "axe" wielding was fierce, but I never truly appreciated its tenacity until now. The reopened stations gracefully dot the picturesque landscapes of Horton-in-Ribblesdale, Ribblehead, Dent, Garsdale, Kirby Stephen, Langwathby, Lazonby, and Armathwaite. Yet, it is challenging to envision their former selves, shrouded in the veil of time, as they lay dormant. For a more comprehensive understanding, I invite you to delve into the captivating world of the Settle-Carlisle Partnership's website.
The enchantment of these once-abandoned stations now serves as testament to the indomitable spirit of those who fought tirelessly to preserve them. Each station, in its rejuvenated glory, offers a glimpse into a bygone era and beckons the curious to explore the tales that lie hidden within their walls.
Horton-in-Ribblesdale, a quaint village nestled at the foot of the famous Three Peaks, boasts a station that is an architectural marvel, designed with intricate stonework that seamlessly blends into the surrounding landscape. Ribblehead, with its commanding position above Wensleydale, showcases the line's engineering prowess as it traverses the challenging terrain of the Ribblesdale Moors.
Dent Station, a Grade II listed building, stands proudly amidst the lush dales and valleys of Cumbria, while Garsdale is tucked away in a tranquil corner, offering breathtaking views of the Howgill Fells. Kirby Stephen's station, nestled in Eden Valley, offers a charming insight into rural England, as does Langwathby, which straddles the border between Cumbria and North Yorkshire.
The picturesque villages of Lazonby and Armathwaite complete the line's ensemble, offering a taste of the timeless charm that has drawn visitors for centuries. As we celebrate this milestone anniversary, these stations remind us of the rich tapestry of history woven into the fabric of our great nation.
As we gather to commemorate the reopening of these treasured sites, let us take a moment to reflect upon the perseverance and dedication that made their resurrection possible. The Settle-Carlisle Line serves as a poignant reminder that sometimes, it is not merely the destination that matters but the journey itself - the struggles, triumphs, and camaraderie forged along the way.
If you find yourself in the enchanting regions of North Yorkshire or Cumbria this year, be sure to take a step back in time aboard the Settle-Carlisle Line. Embark on a journey that transcends mere travel, immersing yourself in the rich history and the resilient spirit of those who dared to preserve a piece of our nation's past for future generations to cherish.
Rail Changes Afoot
4th July 2006 As I pen these words, a sense of melancholy lingers over me, as I ponder the impending alteration to one of Britain's railway networks: the CrossCountry rail franchise. In November 2007, the northern segment of the West Coast Mainline will vanish from the network, allowing trains to be redirected towards the London-Holyhead route. This change, while not imminent, stirs unease within me.
The consequences of this reconfiguration are suboptimal: CrossCountry services will no longer extend beyond Manchester or Crewe. According to recent reports in Rail magazine, Transpennine Express (TPE) has been earmarked for the responsibility of managing services between Manchester and Scotland. I cannot help but view this as a step backwards.
The first challenge that presents itself is capacity. The Voyagers, the trains slated for these services, are four to five-carriage affairs. This may seem adequate, but when considering the sheer volume of passengers that travel northwards, it becomes clear that capacity will be strained.
Another concern lies in the quality of train travel. So long as TPE operates their newer trains, this might not be a significant issue; however, historically, their offerings have been two to three-carriage affairs. One can only hope that we do not encounter the older models, where air conditioning failure is a very real possibility.
Yet, there remain alternative options for those who wish to journey north. Virgin West Coast trains will continue to serve Glasgow, offering solace to those with an appetite for adventure beyond Manchester and Crewe. And if the spirit of extravagance stirs within you, the East Coast Mainline awaits, ready to whisk you away on a journey through England's heartland.
As I gaze out at the horizon, I cannot help but reflect on the changes that lie ahead. The West Coast Mainline, a veritable artery of movement and connection between our great cities, will soon be incomplete. But as one door closes, another opens: a new chapter awaits. Let us hope that it is one filled with comfort, efficiency, and the spirit of adventure that has defined the West Coast Mainline for generations.
