Kerry Way and Torc Mountain: A Highland Trek from Kenmare to Killarney
19th December 2024 In one respect, my longer stay in Killarney was a year too early. 2023 brought an enhanced bus service between Killarney and Kenmare. That would have made for an earlier start along the main hike of my second full day in Kerry: the section of the Kerry Way between Kenmare and Killarney. The later start may have meant that I had longer around Killarney before setting off, yet the long Irish summer evenings meant that there was no major impact in the end.
If I was too early for making use of better bus services, I was optimally timed for avoiding overtourism. A stroll through Knockreer this past July brought that home to me. While it might have been a later arrival from Cork that put me in the time slot for hotel guests being conveyed on horse and carriage tours by jarveys, I was left with the impression that jarveys owed nothing to passing walkers and cyclists. Convoys of them were going my way, and it did not feel very comfortable at all. The 2022 forays avoided all that in a world only slowly emerging from the pandemic tourism nadir.
Unless I have some business to do, I tend not to loiter around Irish towns if I can avoid doing so. That was how it went for me in Kenmare, so I set to finding the route of the Kerry Way and ascending a back road leading unyieldingly uphill from the town. As it did so, I was treated to ever expanding views of Kenmare River and nearby Beara Peninsula on any rest breaks that were needed. The quietude of my surroundings was a marked counterpoint to extensive commercial business ongoing in the town that I left behind me.
Not many others passed me in the opposite direction as I ventured further into the hills. As I did so, it was what surrounded me took up my attention in place of what lay behind me. Gradients also eased to make for less demanding progress along the boreen. It was as if I were passing through such an emerald idyll past which it was rude to rush. Many photography stops ensued as I closed in on Peakeen Mountain and Knockanaguish.
Leaving tarmacked boreens behind me, I took to the gravelled track leading me between Peakeen Mountain and Knockanaguish. It was hereabouts that the skies clouded to limit photography, and a rain shower overtook me to provide the only wetting of the day. Nevertheless, it soon passed to let me imbibe the delights of the bucolic surroundings. It really was special to have such a place deserted and to allot me one of the best lunching stops that I have ever enjoyed. That Windy Gap was not living up to its name made the experience even better.
After that elevated lunching spot, a descent was in order on a track leading to Galway's Bridge and Derrycunihy. However, that was not the direction to be following for Killarney, so I turned right to ascend to Esknamucky Glen; the name of the glen means place of the pigs in Irish (Eisc na Muicí). Before getting, someone going the other way asked for directions to Lady's View, an inquiry that surprised me. A consultation of the map revealed that they were not so misplaced, though a walk along the N72 did not strike me as anyone's idea of pleasure.
If I was expecting a gravel track all the way through Esknamucky Glen, disappointment would have been my lot. Since the surface of the trail is at times uneven along the lower slopes of Cromaglan Mountain, I was glad to be wearing boots. The aforementioned hill might make for a pleasing outing, especially after I opted not to reach its summit, and it is far from being the highest in the area by a long shot.
Only for someone else already being there, I might have dawdled near a small lake and an attendant waterfall on an off-trail break. It would have been well-placed after all the care with foot placement that preceded it. Instead, I made for the track that brought the idea of following the Old Kenmare Road section of the Kerry Way to my notice in the first place.
That was on a claggy day trip to Killarney from Tralee the previous June. Then, I made my getaway from a human throng that centred on Muckross Road to reach the top of Torc Mountain, despite the lack of any views because of the low cloud base. My passing the same hill in better conditions meant that I could not decide against making another ascent, even after the ups and downs of coming all that way from Kenmare.
The added exertions were amply rewarded. Some Americans making their descent shared their astonishment at what they saw; the word "awesome" got used. As overused as that term might be, the panoramic views that I had missed on the earlier encounter were all there to be savoured. All of Killarney's lakes lay below, from Upper Lake to Muckross Lake to Lough Leane, along with Lough Guitane near Glenflesk and nestled beneath Mangerton and its neighbouring hills. This was a spot on which to linger, yet there was a good distance to walk to get to Killarney, and I needed to get going. That would have put paid to any designs on reaching the lower west top of the hill, should they ever had existed.
Conscious of time, I made my descent over boardwalk and pitched path, hardly a great combination for scurrying downhill when one's fear of tumbling takes control. Once on the track below, I rejected the prospect of a descent by Torc Waterfall for a gentler gravelled, and later tarmacked, one following the course of the Old Kenmare Road before crossing the N72 into Muckross.
By this stage, my recollection is that things had degenerated to a sort of zombie trot. Fatigue was to blame at the time, though I now wonder if time also was of the essence. Whatever was the combination of causes, it felt rude to be scurrying past Muckross Friary in the state of mind that I had entered by then. After travelling several more kilometres, I was back at my accommodation, ready for a good night's rest after an often stunning day.
Lakes and Legacies: A Circuit via Knockreer Park and Meetings of the Waters
18th December 2024 The great thing about being based somewhere is that you never need to worry about making the last bus, coach or train back when your base is elsewhere. In Killarney's case, this matters if you are coming from Cork or Limerick, and less so if Tralee is where you are returning. It also is how I got so much out of my Scottish escapades, so repurposing that approach in Ireland was sure to pay dividends. It was as if I were in the Irish counterpart to Aviemore, though things differ substantially in Killarney.
My first full day in the area began cloudy, yet I was more than happy to let the day develop in its own time and add some editing to the photos that I would make. When you seek sunlit visits, you make it possible for the conditions to do just that. Patience is what is needed then, particularly when a midday rain shower comes your way.
It was in that spirit that I continued from my accommodation into Knockreer Park. Along the way there, I passed through Killarney House and Gardens, which offered an escape from street-side strolling. My objective at this stage was to get to the shore of Lough Leane and follow that on the way towards Ross Castle. In some ways, this was a reprise of the route taken during the day trip from Limerick the preceding April, albeit with numerous variations.
One of these was not to linger around historic Ross Castle but to potter around adjoining Ross Island, a lakeside peninsula despite the name. Along the way, I visited such spots as its disused copper mine, the Governor's Rock and O'Donoghue's Library. On the way back towards the castle, I shadowed Ross Bay. The strolling took me into quieter recesses away from the castle, which I was again to pass on the way to Muckross.
While the horse-racing fraternity may not agree with me on this, I reckon that it would add a lot to be able to cut across the racecourse to avoid going along Muckross Road so much. Hoteliers then might have cause to complain if I suggested a footbridge across the River Flesk to go through their grounds. My day trip to Killarney from Tralee at the start of the preceding June would have benefitted greatly from such a diversion that avoided most if not all of the throng that descended on the town that bank holiday weekend.
However, there is a partial concession to this thoroughfare avoidance in the form of a cut-through from Ross Road to Muckross Road near where the latter crosses the aforementioned river. This goes through a residential area before skirting the racecourse stabling area and crossing Maurice O'Donoghue Memorial Park. Anything is better than nothing, I suppose.
Muckross is a significant distance from Killarney at around five kilometres. On the way there, it is mostly downhill, yet going uphill on the way back to meet a transport connection is not the best. Nevertheless, Muckross Road does have places for refreshing oneself if time is available for attending to such needs. The outbound distance and the dallying around other places meant my arrival in Muckross was tardy, all the more so given how much time I spent around Muckross Friary awaiting some sun to allow photos to be made. Thus, I found myself around Muckross House around 16:30, and I was having plans to round Muckross Lake. The length of an Irish summer evening meant that such designs were not as daft as they might have appeared.
The amount of available sunlight justified my persistence; this was to be an advance on the overcast outing that I weathered the preceding April. Much was put to rights during this circuit, and I lingered hopefully near Dinis Cottage and Meetings of the Waters in wait for sunshine to return after any cloudy spells. The waters in question were in good flow with currents flowing strongly from Upper Lake, Muckross Lake and Lough Leane at this well known confluence.
On the way back from Meetings of the Waters to Muckross, I got more than my share of recompense for what I missed during the previous encounter. Despite occasional pauses while the sun played peek-a-boo with the clouds, its appearances brought moments worth savouring. Thus, there was no cause for complaint as I crossed the N72 to pick up a path taking me destined for Torc Waterfall, only for my deciding to peel off for Muckross instead. That spared me some uphill travel and postponed any encounter with a busy spot for later in my stay in the area.
Though Muckross was sun blessed, there was a sign that not everywhere was dry. Dark rain clouds lent a dramatic atmosphere to any sightings of Muckross House. Looking towards the lake allowed a glimpse of a very different world. The juxtaposition of rain and sun in places only kilometres apart was striking.
My return to Killarney was to earn me a soaking as the rain clouds headed west. They soon left me to dry, and I arrived at my lodgings, not displeased with my day on foot. When so much was set to rights, it is impossible to grumble about passing occasional wettings. There was equally much that was peaceful and scenic, too. The tranquillity and lushness of my surroundings was more than amenable to my spirit.
Embracing what lies on Killarney’s doorstep
17th December 2024 For a long time, I had fancied spending more time in Killarney than a day trip. Many family ones have happened, I began to embark on a few of my own during 2022. When the time for a summer break came, and I did not feel ready to go further away, it felt like the ideal time to explore Killarney in more depth.
Because of the way that my time in Ireland pivoted around a weekend, there was an impact on accommodation choices. The result was that I divided my time between Killarney and Cork, shortening my time in the former, especially since I arrived in Ireland on a Tuesday. While a Sunday arrival might have avoided the Saturday night surcharge just as well and given me longer, that was not how things happened.
Still, having three full days of exploration brought innumerable delights my way in any case. The longer Irish evenings of summer also helped with this, ensuring that there was no need to rush because of declining hours of daylight. The continued ability to access the Muckross estate was another aid, particularly given how wonderful sunny Irish evenings can be.
Nevertheless, having another whole day or two could have fitted in an ascent of Mangerton as well as a visit to Tomies Wood. The former was addressed during the past summer, while the latter remains. Perusal of a map put the idea of an excursion to the latter from Meetings of the Waters, only for further reconnaissance to quash that daydream. Another visit to Killarney can take me that side of Lough Leane, the reputed lake of learning (apparently the origin of the name if a certain jarvey is to be believed; the translation from Irish certainly works).
Three Days on the Hoof
Following hindsight, I decided to split things up again in retrospect. Seeing a reading time exceeding twenty minutes was enough to do that after the first edit was shared with the world. Thus, each full day gets its own trip report; that means one for the day around Knockreer, Muckross and Muckross Lake, another for the hike along the Kerry Way between Kenmare and Killarney with a side visit to the top of Torc Mountain, and one more for that spur of the moment traipse from Beaufort through the Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley back to Killarney with added encounters with Upper Lake and Torc Waterfall. Each day of my stay brought its own unique experiences, and giving them their own space in the limelight only seems fair.
A lot got packed into those few days, and the longer evenings of an Irish summer really helped with all this. The weather provided its own share of encouragement; it was all enough to make me proceed like a child in a proverbial sweet shop. Killarney just is that kind of place, from the allure of Ross Castle and the serenity of Muckross Lake to the stirring sights from the top of Torc Mountain. Such journeys only can be filled with moments of reflection and wonder, particularly at the Meetings of the Waters and amidst the vistas of the Gap of Dunloe. The serendipitous detour through the Black Valley on that last full day evinced a certain spirit of spontaneity. While a certain amount of planning is essential, it is those unexpected moments that are the very ones that become lasting, cherished memories.
One Last Foray Before a Departure
Before heading for Cork, I again returned to Knockreer for another circuit, one that was diminutive compared with the rounds that I had been doing the preceding three days. It was a way of saying farewell to a place that had given me so much during my stay there. The longer encounter had yielded ample rewards.
This was one extra chance to glimpse the unique mix of lakes and mountains that draws so many to Killarney. It is not for nothing that it is a favoured spot for me. Though parts can get busy, the place does have it quieter corners too, and I found a few of them over the years. Too many descend on the obvious attractions, leaving the rest for others who seek them. It is ever thus with so many scenic spots; connoisseurs are left with the best bits that need more effort to reach.
Travel Arrangements
My journey commenced in Macclesfield, where I boarded one train to Manchester Piccadilly and then another to Manchester Airport before taking a flight across the Irish Sea to Dublin. A delay to the arrival of my flight meant that I needed to take a later train to Killarney, changing trains in Mallow. The swiftness of Dublin Express services could not compensate for that, even if I did get to fit in an impromptu visit to the Phoenix Park. On the way to Killarney, there was added nervousness at Rathmore while adding the passage of a train coming the other way, especially when we were running late already. All was well in the end, though; I was none too late for my hotel reservation.
During my stay, I used Bus Éireann's network to explore the region. Travelling to Kenmare on service 271 got me to that trailhead for my hike along part of the Kerry Way back to Killarney. Going on service 279 to Beaufort Bridge set me up for the Gap Dunloe, from where I staged that unplanned hike back to Killarney using another section of the Kerry Way. Finally, the Expressway service 40 provided a scenic route through some of southern Ireland's verdant landscapes on the way to Cork for the next part of the sojourn.
No overly intrusive nagging, please…
15th December 2024 Over the years, I have stuck with Fitbit for keeping up my level of physical activity. Because devices fail, I have had a few of their devices since the first one, more than ten years ago. Now that Google's ownership is taking effect, some things are coming upon us and customisability is not what it might be.
The latest Charge 6 is one of those because of the way that they changed exercise tracking from what was working on its predecessor. Add in fitness features that are in the app that nag you too often and cannot be switched off if you happen to turn them off again, and you start to look elsewhere (Cardio Load is one of these). Even staring afresh with another account along with removing and reinstalling the Android does not seem to work.
Thus, I am minded to go away from the Fitbit ecosystem to something less intrusive, and this might be the time to do that. For a while, I have had a Garmin watch that is not the accurate altimeter that I hoped it would. Nevertheless, it has 24 day battery life and tracks the measures that matter to me. For those reasons, that might be the only one for me, and that is before I get to look at smartwatches to replace fitness trackers like what I have been using.
Adding a new acquisition is not a priority for me now, so I am minded to give some time to learning what the Garmin can tell me. Since, there is an Android app, that is the way to go. It records the number of stairs climbed, which takes me back to the days of the Fitbit Charge 2. Other useful measures may become known to me as time proceeds. A new start with added learning may be in order.
A question of resoling
11th December 2024 The pair of Scarpa boots that I retain for muddy hiking are showing signs of wear. The uppers are fine, but the soles are another matter. The back of a unit on one of the boots is holed and picking up stones. The other is showing signs of my aberrant pronation, with wear on one side of the heel and not the other. That applies to the first one a little too, and tarmac tramping may not have made for extended longevity.
This dilemma emerged before with an elderly pair of Meindl boots. Then, the uppers were so worn that resoling felt like false economy and replacement became the chosen option. That is not the case with the Scarpas, so I am seriously considering the idea of getting them overhauled, which would involve ensuring that they were well cleaned before being sent away.
Naturally, there is a cost implication. Doing some research online, I found this to be £100, which is reasonable given the cost of replacement. The catch is the amount of time that it takes to get the work done. The quoted nine-week turnaround time that I have seen is not the most attractive, it needs saying. If someone else can do it quicker, that would be better, so long as the quality is acceptable.
While the reason given for the extra time taken is that the work needs added skill to perform it, and that may be the case, losing the use of a pair of boots for two to three months does change the practicality of the process significantly. If you have to have another pair of boots in hand, is it worth doing in the first place? That is fine for someone with the extra pair of boots or the ability to borrow them. Would someone who is active in the outdoors be content with a temporary cheaper while all this is happening? That might depend on the season: summer might be better than winter, depending on the activities undertaken in each season.
One thing is certain: walking boots are more expensive than they ever have been. Those old Meindl items were acquired for around £100 in 2009, possibly because they were the old model when a new one was coming on the market. A good pair of leather boots can set you back around double that amount these days. Thus, the cost works, even if the timing is not the best. The practice also should be the better way to go in what feels like a throwaway society, but not if another pair of boots is need to cover the time that the first boots are away. This conundrum needs a little more thought.
