Category: Ireland
A step forward for the opening up of the countryside in Éire?
3rd November 2007 Access to the countryside in my native Éire has always remained a grey area, often tolerated even if it is not strictly legal. It is also a matter that has been complicated by history. For one thing, it hasn't bequeathed us a network of public footpaths and bridleways like that which criss-crosses England and Wales. In that respect, the Irish situation is somewhat akin to Scotland's, though that country does have known rights of way even if they are not marked on any OS map and so take some finding. Of course, Scotland has imported some Scandinavian enlightenment with its access legislation as well, while it places an emphasis on those out enjoying their rights also knowing their responsibilities.
Continuing the Scotland versus Ireland theme, there is also the matter of how land is owned to be considered. A feudal land ownership system still pervades in parts of Scotland, but was all but banished from Ireland in the early years of the twentieth century. Scotland suffered the Clearances, while the Irish largely resisted any such attempts at a free for approach that might have ended up there. The result of the former is that we see vast tracts of Scottish land sparsely populated and owned by far fewer people, with the people who actually farm the land renting it. Land agitation in the Ireland resulted in several land acts that resulted in loans being given to Irish farmers to buy their own land. This has meant that holdings in Ireland hardly ever top a few hundred acres and a 40 acre farm far from an uncommon situation; the questionable economic viability of the latter is perhaps why EU subsidies are so important to Irish farming families. That has meant that the Irish countryside is more peopled than its Scottish equivalent, and the fight for the right to own land has made for an emotional attachment to it that only now may be slackening.
Putting the lack of traditional rights of way and a strong emotional attachment both to the idea of owning land and handing on to the next generation should they be interested in farming, a waning pattern given the rise of the Celtic Tiger and the opportunities that it has presented, it is remarkable that there is any off-road walking on offer at all. Indeed, the Waymarked Ways, Ireland's long-distance walking trail network, sadly goes over a lot of tarmac and that's a pity, even if the roads are quiet affairs.
Thankfully, the opportunities remain and Walking World Ireland does have some good ideas for routes that I must explore some time; this was also borne out by Andy Howell's outings along the coast and among the mountains of West Cork (excursions that put me to shame...). However, the said magazine also reports tussles arising from the whole land access issue, and that's why a recent item on the RTÉ News website was an encouraging sign. The idea of an expanded network of paths for off-road walking can only be a good, and it is also promising that there is now a willingness at government level to fund can only be a good thing. Let's hope that it comes to pass and worries about spurious insurance claims and bad walker behaviour will come to nothing. We all owe it to the proposal to make it a success and then ensure that it is the start of something greater.
A spot of recce in Gougane Barra
3rd May 2007 Last weekend saw pop over to Éire to see the folks for the first time since the Christmas break. It also saw me revisiting Gougane (pronounced guugawn) Barra, where the River Lee rises, on the Sunday. This place is one of my father's favourite places and even with cloudy skies and a cloud base approaching the 500 metre level, you could still see why. Seeing it on a sunny day and being able to explore it in a bit more depth would have been ideal but my 90 minutes off the leash (my parents are not really into walking but they have bequeath me a love of the countryside) allowed for a good few record shorts capturing ideas for any return. Still, the weather remained dry for our stay, a bonus since we had passed through mist, murk and light rain while we made our way there.
Gougane is place with two sides to it: Valley Desmond and an eponymous lake with an island hosting the ruins of an old monastery and a small church. The lake sits outside Valley Desmond and collects the waters of the juvenile Lee before it continues its onward journey towards Cork city where it meets the sea in Cork harbour. The monastic ruins once hosted a religious community found by Cork city's patron saint, Finbarr. Given how old it is, it is amazing how much remains in good condition and it is hard to fault its setting but it is well frequented.
Nowadays, Valley Desmond is owned by Coillte, the Irish forestry agency (it's the Irish word for forests or woods and is pronounced queellte), and ubiquitous conifers line the hills from whose craggy slopes the waters of the juvenile Lee gather. There was a time before the invasion of commercial forestry but there was no access for the public back then like there is today. Coillte, like any state-owned custodian of commercial forest, does do its bit to encourage visitors and they charge for entry too, though you could be lucky in the off season. For the money, you get parking and a reasonable network of paths; in fact, this network is being treated to a spot of maintenance right now with bridge replacements and surface improvements taking place. It was on these paths that I went for a stroll and some of them do get you above the tree line for views of the lake, among other things. The hills around here may not be that high - the Irish have a penchant for calling anything above 400 metres high a mountain but that's a discussion for another day - but the thoughts of delving deeper do appeal to me.
Getting a bus to Glendalough
7th November 2006 The rolling landscapes of Ireland's Wicklow Mountains have long appealed to me, and they also were a favourite haunt of my parents. And now, I've discovered a twice-daily bus service that transports you straight to this alluring corner of the Emerald Isle: the St. Kevin's Bus.
The 30-mile (48 km) route commences in Dublin, where I once spotted an evening service departing, adorned with its web address. This coach ride will take you to one of the most picturesque locales in Ireland. Along the way, the bus makes a stop at the coastal town of Bray, a place where my parents once honeymooned. The place is home to an enchanting promenade that offers panoramic views of the Irish Sea. Beyond that, Roundwood is the next landmark along the route, the highest village in Ireland.
The final destination is Glendalough, which resides within the expansive Wicklow Mountains National Park, a haven for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Two picturesque lakes, the Upper Lake and Lower Lake, beckon visitors to embark on serene picnics or invigorating hikes. The area offers a variety of outdoor activities such as rock climbing, making it an ideal destination for those wishing to immerse themselves in the natural splendour.
The Wicklow Mountains, with their rugged beauty and abundance of walking trails, make for an ideal destination for those seeking nature. And while I have yet to visit this captivating region, the knowledge of the bus times has sparked a sense of possibility within me, the promise of new journeys waiting for embarkation.
So, if you find yourself in Dublin and yearning for an escape into the countryside, you can hop aboard the St. Kevin's Bus. Then, you can allow the Wicklow Mountains unfold before your eyes, as you traverse an enchanting land and uncover its quieter corners. Their rugged beauty and abundance of walking trails, make for an ideal destination for those seeking an escape from urban confines.
Even though, I have yet to visit this captivating region, the knowledge of the bus times has sparked a sense of possibility within me, the promise of new journeys waiting for embarkation. Perhaps one day, I too will step off that bus in Wicklow, hoping for invigoration as I take my first steps into this attractive area not far from Dublin. Until then, those hills and valleys will be kept on a shelf where appealing ideas are retained.
Catching up on my outdoor reading
28th September 2006 A brief sojourn in Ireland sparked a thought that refused to dissipate amidst the hustle of family and other obligations. As I caught up with my favourite outdoor magazines (TGO, Walking World Ireland, Outdoor Photography) a question lingered: why do we seldom discuss the public transport options for accessing our natural wonders?
Trail and Country Walking, fortunately, have grasped this concept already. Yet, even TGO, which strives valiantly to cover all aspects of the outdoors, could do more. The assumption, perhaps, is that public transport is wanting in many places. For photographers, the timings often run counter to the whims of landscape photography, best captured during the extremes of daylight. However, I suspect there's another reason behind this omission: car-using writers might simply neglect to mention alternative options when they do not use them themselves.
The Traveline phone number or website address, possibly a beacon for many a British traveller, has become synonymous with a certain lack of application in our outdoor community. Could we, as advocates and practitioners of the great outdoors, nudge them towards more providing comprehensive information? It could start with our showing where to find this; even a bus route number would be an improvement on what we see much of the time, and telling the whereabouts of the nearest bus or train stop would help, even if there is more distance to go on foot to reach a trailhead.
To embrace this new frontier, one must first acknowledge the sustainability that public transport offers, and there are times when it works better for linear hikes too. So let us seize this opportunity to redefine our outdoor pursuits, embracing the journey as much as the destination. Why don't we champion public transport, advocate for comprehensive information, and encourage fellow explorers to leave their cars at home?
Places to go, places to see
14th May 2006 While doing my recent website update (it’s structural rather than being anything more instilling for non-techies), I got to think about possible destinations for walking trips. What triggered it was that I was seeing photos taken in places that I have already been and thinking: I should go back there. Examples include:
Scottish Borders: I paid some visits to Peebles in 2003 but haven’t been since. Galashiels was considered as a destination for the Easter weekend, but it didn’t work out that way; I went to the Isle of Arran instead.
Loch Lomond: On my forays to the Western Highlands, I keep passing this loch and the surrounding area. I only stopped in Balloch in 1999, and there is much more to savour: Ben Lomond, West Highland Way and much more.
Callander and the Trossachs: Another place that I have passed on numerous occasions. I did go walking in Callander’s vicinity in 2002, but a return is overdue.
Loch Tay: While at university in Edinburgh, I went here every year but haven’t been back in ages. It could be combined with Pitlochry and Aberfeldy for a future visit. I have never walked in the area because cycling was my preferred mode of exploration at the time when I frequented it.
Brecon Beacons: So far, I have walked in the Abergavenny locality, but there is far more to see here. It will take more than a day trip to see more of this national park due to transport constraints.
And then there are other ideas again:
Northumberland: I keep reading about its fantastic moorland, and I did walk along its coastline last January. That was only a warm-up for more, though. Due to transport costs (a Saver Return train ticket costs £65-72), a bit of planning is required for a longer stay that does justice to the county. I did have an idea for Easter that would have seen a visit to the Northumbria National Park combined with a trip to the Scottish Borders. It never materialised though and has remained on the shelf.
Pembrokeshire Coastal Path: I have read about this is in the magazine The Great Outdoors and rate it as an idea for a long weekend.
Ireland: I have seen less of my own country than I have of the U.K. and I keep telling myself that I should set that to rights. I am happy to remain living and working in the U.K. so a trip of a few days in length would be what is needed. While I know Cork and Kerry well (and seeing them in my own time would be a bonus), there are other places where I have never been: Wicklow, Connemara, Mayo and Donegal to name some that come to mind. A car would make the whole idea run a lot smoother…
Western Isles: While I have dreamt up this week-long ramble from Lewis to Barra, I am unsure whether it will happen. After all, I did consider Harris after my 2001 break in Scotland. This is the way that it would work: first get to Stornoway (overnight train/coach to Inverness, coach to Ullapool, ferry to Stornoway), travel to Harris by bus, then to North Uist by bus and ferry, onto South Uist via Benbecula (and causeways), taking a ferry to Barra, leave Barra by ferry to Oban. Of course, my plan would to punctuate all of this with walking. Care is required, though, as Sunday is kept very strictly as the Lord’s Day in Lewis and Harris (there has been a row about Calmac running a ferry service on a Sunday) and I don’t fancy being marooned anywhere. I do respect their point of view, though. However, the southern islands are more Catholic and have a more pragmatic approach to this.
Having all of the above in my mind does keep my feet very much on the ground: I haven’t seen anything like all of Britain and Ireland yet.
