Category: Long Distance Trails
2007: the excursions reviewed
7th January 2008 It's very human to look back at the turn of a year/decade/century/millennium/etc. and, this time last year, I took the opportunity to look over my travels in 2006. In the same vein, I now cast my mind back over the same sort of thing but for 2007 instead. If 2006 was to be the year of seeking out pastures new, then 2007 has been a year largely taken up with following long-distance trails into country familiar to me from a different angle and, more often than not, into country that I am visiting for the first time.
2007 was to start quietly with only one walking excursion in January. The weather didn't tempt but for a day when I went to Chirk for a trek to Llangollen that saw me hop over and back along the Wales-England border before picking up a small piece of the Offa's Dyke Path and leaving that to get to Llangollen before nightfall. It was a case of something old, something new, and put an idea into my head that laid the foundations for a walk later in the year. The long-distance trail ethic that was to pervade my walking in 2007 had made an early appearance.
February built up the long-distance trail trend with my exploring two trails. First up was the Pennine Way, with a hike from Hebden Bridge to Littleborough giving me a feel for the moors above Calderdale. Walks along the Pennine Way, still unfinished business in 2008, were to pervade my outings until the end of April. My second excursion took me up to Scotland for the southernmost part of the West Highland Way: Milngavie to Drymen. This was also a case of going into countryside new to me and, like the Calderdale trot, it was to give rise to more excursions later on.
The Pennine Way hiking continued in March, and it started again early in the month with a trek that saw me return to Calderdale for a walk from Todmorden to Burnley by way of both the Pennine Way and the Pennine Bridleway. This was followed up at the end of the month when I yomped from Haworth to Burnley.
My Pennine wanderings were set to continue in April and the first one plugged a gap in the itinerary from Edale to Haworth: Marsden to Littleborough via Wessenden Reservoir. It was to prove a claggy day until lunchtime, something that very much focussed the mind when it came to navigation. My next day along the Pennine Way was in clearer if blustery conditions. It also was to take me through some of the best countryside on the Pennine Way as I voyaged from Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes. Rain was to beset me on my next excursion as I left Malham Tarn to head for Gargrave, but I left the rain after me in Malham and things cheered up immeasurably as I was nearing my destination for the day. Those two excursions left a gap that was filled on a tramp from Malham Tarn over Fountains Fell and Pen-y-Ghent to Horton on a day that when it felt like summer.
I started May with another trip blessed by fair weather. After years of admiring it, I finally made my way up to the top of Skiddaw. Some may view the manicured lines of the "tourist track" that I followed as dull, I'd rather not scare myself with descents that are too steep, so I well appreciated its gentler approach and I still found time to take in Little Man and Lattrigg as well. Next up in May was a trip that my memory reckons happened in July; it's just as well that I have this blog! I made my return to Chirk for another stroll along the Offa's Dyke Path, this time to Oswestry. Cloud predominated on the day, so photographic opportunities were rare. Even so, it didn't stop my having a good walk in countryside that was new to me. If I had more time, I would have dawdled more, so it might time for a return. In walking terms, the month of May went out with a bang: a two-day trek on the West Highland Way along the banks of Loch Lomond with an overnight stay in Rowardennan. I very much took a chance with the weather on this one, but Scotland didn't let me down on what is, for me, one of the finest stretches of the WHW.
June was to be a quieter month regarding walking and the long evenings were allowing me to get out in the part of Cheshire's hill country that is near me. These outings were to become a feature of the "summer". June soon became a sodden affair, yet I still returned to Rhinog country for a creditable stroll through a landscape that was anything but dry. The weather that we were getting was a foretaste of what was to come, making 2007 a year of two halves: one fabulous and one that returned us to reality. Alan Sloman was lucky to complete his LEJOG when he did.
July was for many a washout, yet I managed to get two decent Lakeland excursions out of the month. Both involved my heading to Windermere, with the first being an over and back hike to Kentmere and the second being a trek to Staveley via Kentmere. On both outings, I enjoyed the fine scenery in excellent weather, something that must sound ironic to those sodden by the floods of 2007. Yes, water had accumulated underfoot, but the worst difficulties, if any, were avoidable.
August saw me finishing two long-distance trails and starting on another one. The first to be completed was the West Highland Way, and that happened on my now habitual summertime stay in Scotland. That saw me complete of perhaps the noisiest stretch of the trail: that between Bridge of Orchy and Inverarnan and with some sun to enliven the views too. The other walking that I did during that trip was a soggy reconnaissance trip among the hills near Kinlochleven. The other trail completed was one passing not far from where I live: the Gritstone Trail. Hikes from Macclesfield to Congleton and from Eaton to Kidsgrove in pleasant conditions allowed me to bring my walking of the trail towards a good end. A final evening stroll was sufficient for me to walk the final short stretch around Bollington before I then walked home to my house. The bank holiday weekend at the end of the month allowed me the opportunity to start off the Rob Roy Way by walking from Drymen to Callander, with an overnight stay in Aberfoyle. This got me into nice countryside that I hadn't visited before, and it seems more than worthy of a return.
After what must sound like a bountiful August, hillwalking activities were less prevalent for the rest of the year, even if I had planned not to have things slow down. September and November stand out as months when you could have said that I had gone into hibernation. October saw me head out for a local constitutional to take in the Autumn colour, follow streams in local hill country and visit the South Pennines for a hike that was lacking in any real progress on completing the missing link in my Pennine Way journey. In December, I decided to vanquish any sense of hibernation by another wander among the hills lining the Cheshire-Derbyshire border, followed up by a fleeting unintended visit to the hill country of the Long Mynd near Church Stretton.
All in all, 2007 was another good walking year for me. Unless you lost out in the flooding (and I don't envy anyone who did: hope it all works out all right for them), it would be a travesty to remember 2007 for its sodden summer when we had so much clement weather earlier in the year. As it happens, the continual greyness that pervaded nearly all of 2004 remains with me, with 2007's bright spots easily causing me to forget any grey bits. The proverbial question of what 2008 will bring does raise its head, as it is wont to do; so also is the realisation that the future is not ours to see (we're probably better off!). I never go in for big plans anyway, but that doesn't stop me having ideas in my mind for when the opportunities to explore them arise. We'll see what happens...
Reconnaissance walking in South Shropshire
21st December 2007 Engineering works induced some timetable changes that presented the prospect of a Sunday visit to Knighton to explore some of the scenery around there. After all, the Offa's Dyke Path passes nearby, so it can't be bad. A bus journey from Macclesfield to Crewe set me up for an onward train journey. Everything was going well until tardiness by Arriva Trains Wales meant that I missed the train to Knighton. It's on the Heart of Wales railway, and so the level of service isn't at all frequent. Couple that with the absence of a Sunday bus service, and plans soon change.
As ever, I had a back-up plan in mind: this time, it was to be the Long Mynd near Church Stretton. Having passed by this striking hill country a number of times while destined for such places as Abergavenny, Crickhowell and Brecon, it was about time that I paid the area a visit, even as short as my first one turned out to be. The oversight had been caused by my not realising what was there. The sighting of the shapely prominences even had me wondering if I was nearing Abergavenny, the first time that I went down there. More wisdom has emerged since then.
Thus, I pottered up the Carding Mill Valley to the heights where Pole Bank tempted me until I saw the faintness of the path through the heather from Shooting Box. That still left me with a good bimble before I came back down again, by way of Haddon Hill and Bodbury Hill. These hills may not be high in those parts, yet the gradients are nothing to be mocked; they certainly gave my legs and lungs a decent workout. The day remained resolutely overcast, but that doesn't bother me, since the idea of a return is a tempting prospect. In any case, I still hope to get to Knighton, and the prospect of seeing the environs of Church Stretton under blue skies is another motivator. There may be much cause for repeat visits yet.
A return to Brontë country
24th October 2007 In public transport terms, the day didn't start too well, yet I did get to do some hillwalking last Sunday. The first bus service from Macclesfield to Manchester didn't happen for me, either through it not running or my missing the thing by a mere minute. It doesn't matter what actually happened because the result was the same anyway. The alternative plot of catching the 10:29 train to Manchester Piccadilly was set into action. Once in Piccadilly, the next step was to make my way to Manchester Victoria to catch the 11:08 departure to Hebden Bridge, as I had originally planned. Things were looking hopeful until Stockport, but it went downhill after that. The result was that I ended up on the 12:09 to Hebden Bridge. The final leg of the journey was a ride on Transdev Keighley and District service 500 to Oxenhope.
Those obstacles overcome, I began my walk a good hour later than I had intended, but the day continued to be as sunny as it had started. If it had done otherwise, I would have had grounds for irritation. After finding my bearings, I started to make my way out of Oxenhope and took advantage of roadside footways all the way until I made it onto a minor road that I was soon to leave for the moorland public footpath network. I climbed steadily but not too steeply with views of Leeshaw reservoir to my left. Looking down gained me views of pleasant farmland with the moors overhead. I made my way around Haworth Moor and Harbour Hill to pick up the Brontë Way before it joined the Pennine Way and headed for Top Withins. I was to join the Pennine Way myself, but I had another footpath in mind. However, there was no sign of it in the heather, so I made my own crossing with a navigationally useful wall to my left.
The idea that I had in my mind was to knock off another section of the Pennine Way, but the reality was that I took a mere nibble of the portion between Haworth and Gargrave that I have yet to do. I did get as far as Ponden Reservoir and pondered going further, but the time that I had was limited. Launching further into remote country means that you have to return afterwards, and all of that was likely cost a lot of a commodity of which I didn't have a lot: time. Getting back to Macclesfield was actually a bigger consideration than when the sun was due to go down. So, I decided to head onto Stanbury via Ponden Mill and then onto Haworth for the last bus to Hebden Bridge so that I could retrace my way home. Otherwise, I would have had to get a bus to Keighley and then take a longer journey from there. As it turned out, I was home by a very timely 19:30; getting to the Worth Valley via Hebden Bridge is easily an hour shorter than going around by Keighley.
Something that had started out as an opportunity to bag another part of the Pennine Way turned into an enjoyable reconnaissance ramble in rustic moorland on a sunny October day. Naturally, my thoughts turned to how I might advance the PW cause in this area, so here goes. Getting into the Worth Valley via Hebden Bridge is a practical public transport option, and a quicker one than the obvious alternative. Trying on a Saturday would get me there earlier in the day and would also have the added advantage of there being a bus service to the pleasant village of Stanbury, assuming that the times worked out. A good supply of off-road walking would get me to Ponden Reservoir and the PW again. It's a plan, but who knows if or when I'll put it into action?
Postscript: Visiting land belonging to Yorkshire Water
Yorkshire Water seem to very keen on encouraging people to enjoy the land around their reservoirs. After all, they do have a website containing useful ideas for walkers, cyclists, horse riders and so on. Unsurprisingly, I took a look from the walker's perspective and there are walking route ideas with full descriptions and the same seems to be on offer to cyclists.
It's all a far cry from the way that things were once upon a time. Before the advent of water treatment plants and their like, reservoirs and the land round about them were out of bounds for the general public lest the supplies got contaminated. That mindset certain applied in Longdendale and also was behind the building of the Mourne Wall among the mountains of the same name in Northern Ireland. Aren't we lucky that we live in more enlightened times? And yes, I know that they are far from perfect...
End of a trail, start of a gallery
24th September 2007 Because I had until this year only walked the West Highland Way north of Bridge of Orchy, I had the photos from the corresponding treks bundled with those from Lochaber. Following my establishment of a Pennine Way gallery and my walking the rest of the WHW, it was time to split the previous Lochaber gallery in two and recognise that some photos that were included there really belonged under the Argyll umbrella. So, I now have two sections in the gallery, one for a circuit of Lochaber and another for the WHW. The WHW one is still awaiting more photos and some that are already included may need a spot of sympathetic retouching so the WHW show really is only starting. And knowing me, I may even encounter the WHW again and again so you never know what'll turn up yet.
Trekking around the Trossachs
22nd September 2007 Having dispatched my musings on the West Highland Way, I can now recount my wanderings on the last weekend in August, a bank holiday in England but not Scotland; they, like Éire, get theirs at the start of August. A Saturday free of driving lessons meant that an excursion was very likely, so I returned to Scotland when I saw a promising forecast.
Since the weather on that Saturday was not to be the best, I chose that day for travelling. Everything was going hunky-dory until I took a tumble at Dumbarton East train station and felt the worst for wear afterwards. It then was a case of getting to my hotel for the night and taking things easier from then on. Otherwise, it had been a good train journey all of the way from Macclesfield, with changes in Manchester, Lancaster and Glasgow. The change in Glasgow allowed me to get a new Explorer 365 after its predecessor had somehow managed to disappear. While my maps don't usually do things like that, it was fortuitous in the sense that the Rob Roy Way is shown in the current edition.
Though the sun made fleeting appearances while I was in Dumbarton, I wasn't to make much use of my camera there. The nearby castle looked promising, as did the Kilpatrick hills. These offer possibilities for the future, and I will be watching my steps in train stations around there after my mishap. Sunday saw me leave for Balloch, where I caught a bus to Drymen for the start of my walk.
It was just as well, given my tumble, that I had chosen part of the less challenging Rob Roy Way as the route for my weekend stroll. Initially, I had designs on heading to Balmaha and starting from there and rounding Conic Hill, only to drop this idea because my start was later than originally intended. From Drymen, the RRW follows the old Gartmore Road for three and a half miles (5.6 km) before it heads west to Aberfoyle through Loch Ard Forest, where the trail is usefully waymarked. Views of the Campsie Fells were plentiful and there were glimpses of Ben Lomond to be had too. While I am usually not a fan of road walking, the road was quiet and I appreciating the easier going. Having to remain alert for cars is my main reason for disliking road walks. Once off the road, northward views opened up, with the Menteith Hills being among what was to be seen. The tarmac was lost too, along with any sights of pylons, and it was all pleasant stuff. I made decent progress even with carrying a heavy rucksack and polished off the ten-mile walk in five hours to reach a sun-drenched Aberfoyle; because cloud abounded, the sun wasn't out all of the time.
For the evening, I settled myself in an Aberfoyle guest house before going on a stroll to and from Loch Ard itself. Surprisingly, I wasn't feeling the effects of my endeavours and so enjoyed my walk along the quiet road, which lead all of the way to Inversnaid on the shores of Loch Lomond. Even though the sun was playing hard to get, some photographic opportunities did present themselves and I did my best with them. When I got back to the guest house, road workers from the council were proceeding with road repairs that were to continue all night, much to the annoyance of other guests at my lodgings. Nevertheless, I suffered no such inconvenience and was extra careful when passing lorries, dumpers and other such carriageway maintenance machinery.
The next morning began promisingly. The sun was out, and it wasn't overly hot either, a feature of the whole weekend; walking and hot weather are not made for each other. I encountered some Americans at breakfast who were wondering what bank holidays and speed cameras were. I satisfied their curiosity before they continued their way on a holiday that was to lead them to Ireland's mid and southwest. As I finished my breakfast, children were making their way to school. It was a normal Scottish weekday.
I took my leave of the guest house to follow the RRW to Callander. It was 10:00 by the time that I began to make progress away from Aberfoyle; this always seems to happen to me on these trips: I leave somewhere later than I would have liked. From Aberfoyle, it was on to Dounan's Centre and into more forestry; more RRW waymarks were there to resolve any confusion. Views of the Campsie Fells and towards Ben Lomond still pervaded as I headed along the Menteith Hills. The forestry track turned into a path that was to take me through open country with splendid views before me lit up by the sun. It was after an unnamed lochan that I again found myself with forestry track underfoot. That track was to drop me down to the shores of Loch Vennacher, with views of Ben Ledi percolating through the trees.
Sadly, cloud cover predominated while I was walking by Loch Vennacher and the sun was nowhere to be seen. Still, the scenery looked glorious, causing me to add a mental note about n=making another visit when the skies are less clouded. The Trossachs proper were further west and a busy A821 could be heard, though it wasn't to be that intrusive. It remained cloudy as I bashed more tarmac to arrive in Callander at 15:00; I had made good time and put three miles behind me in an hour without too much effort.
Since Callander was where I ended my walking for the weekend, I caught a bus from there to Stirling. It started to rain as I left: some sort of pathetic fallacy, perhaps? At Stirling train station, I was in something of a dilemma regarding the next stage of my journey: was I going via Edinburgh or Glasgow? It should have been a no-brainer; I had a return ticket from Macclesfield to Glasgow. Being overcautious me, I had to double-check things before plumping for Glasgow.
As it happened, I made it to Queen Street station shortly after 17:20 and hot footed it to Central station in a pleasing 10 minutes; I will keep that in mind for the future. Then, I hopped on the 17:40 departure for London Euston and was home by 22:30, having changed in Preston and Manchester on the way south. It was a good trip into some countryside where I hadn't been before, and I hope to come back again.
